As an American born on the West Coast I like to think I know something about Mexican food. Having…read morelived abroad for a few long stretches, I also know it is difficult to find passable, and certainly not decent Mexican food outside of certain regions of the U.S.
Cartel Taqueria is not great Mexican food. However, it specializes in birria-style tacos, doing one thing well for an enjoyable meal. Birria itself is a cooking method for red meat, but has evolved into a new hip style of taco, taking that long-simmered meat, and frying it in a taco with cheese. Greasy goodness.
We came at opening on a Friday evening. The location is open from 12-8, but the kitchen opens at 5.
Cartel's menu is simple and straightforward. Tacos, some sides, two desserts, and a selection of beer, wine, and margaritas. We ordered one each of the birria, carnitas, and fish tacos, with a side of chips and guac. It was more than enough food for two adults. They also offer kids tacos, which are smaller and less complicated, which my child enjoyed.
The Good: Despite being simmered and fried, Cartel excels at ensuring there are dimensions of flavors in the tacos, allowing the sauce and other toppings for the tacos make their presence known. It helps to lighten the overall flavor and experience rather than being inundated by fat on fat on fat. The fish taco was lighter than the birria taco, and was also very nice. We had churros for dessert, and they were really great as well. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and the perfect coating of cinnamon-sugar (skip the dipping sauces).
The not-so-good: Margaritas. A proper margarita is not frozen. It is served on the rocks and is a specific ratio of tequila, triple sec (or similar), and lime juice. Anything else is a fake. These margaritas are fake. Skip them. The same goes for the chips and guac. Clearly store-bought, mass-produced, and not good. The guac had a weird soup-like consistency. As though it was cut with another substance. Guac should be chunky and clearly made with avocados. This was not guac.
It's a passable night out for tacos, but leaves much room for improvement!