tl;dr volume meets value at this top-notch neighborhood butchery-bistro; you can't go wrong with either the steak tartare or the steak hache
Tartare de boeuf is an iconic French dish, and Paris is one of the few places in the world where steak tartare is as ubiquitous as Starbucks. One oft-recommended spot for this delicacy is Le Severo, a 14th arrondissement butchery-bistro specializing in all things beef. Professionally trained butcher William Bernet has owned and operated Severo for nearly 40 years, and the shop remains a timelessly quaint establishment.
The black awning and maroon walls of this corner shop starkly contrast with the otherwise light-stoned Parisian highrises. Inside, warm filamented bulbs shine down among the tightly packed, white-clothed tables. The chalkboard on the far wall is decorated with whimsical, butchery-inspired drawings. Only a chest-height counter separates the dining room and the kitchen. The sizzle of the grill very nearly overpowers the respectful din of conversation.
We arrived at 7:30 PM (the beginning of dinner service), and the tiny, ten-table bistro progressively filled up throughout our night. I walked in the door knowing that I would order the signature Steak Tartare, while my sister and mother both gravitated toward the Steak Hache. I loved the enormous caper-forward tartare, but the baseball-sized steak hache patties were no pushover, either; the excellently crispy sear on the outside belied a rare interior. Both the flavourful frites and the slightly sweet haricots verts were admirable sides, and even the complimentary wheat sourdough was a delicious bite.
Service was brusquely efficient, and Bernet himself remains a fixture among the old-school waitstaff. Because the staff speak limited English, and the menus are exclusively in French, I'd recommend browsing the menu beforehand to avoid feeling like a fish out of water. Our bill worked out to about 70 euros, and we left very nearly rolling out of the restaurant. At no point did Severo feel anything but an authentic bistro, and it was well worth a trip off the beaten path. read more