Looking for that picture perfect postcard view of Naples? This is your spot!
Perched atop Vomero Hill, this fortress was built in 1329 as the residence of King Robert of Naples, expanding upon an existing 13th century structure. In 1537 it was further extended under viceroy don Pedro de Toledo to its six-pointed star design, and additional renovations were made thru subsequent centuries.
Tufa, a yellow volcanic stone often used in much ancient construction throughout Naples, is also used here. On entering the grounds at 5pm a short line at the ticket office is unavoidable, since after 4:30pm tickets are reduced from €5 to €2.50. A short five minute walk brings you around a corner to an expansive with tall, broad walls, and a short overpass over a shallow ravine brings you to the gate. A few more turns up a gently sloped path thru the ramparts and the panoramic views start coming into sight.
At the top of the fortress, the inner ward encircled by the battlements is wide and open, uncrowded on a Sunday afternoon in April. The Museo Novecento is located here which features modern Italian art from 1910-1980 though closes at 5pm, a small museum with about 170 works. Worth dropping by for a look, admission is included in the fortress ticket.
Aside from the museum, there's a location of the well-known bakery/café Scaturchio (see my sep review for their Centro Historico location) here where you can grab a coffee or traditional Italian merenda, or afternoon snack. Surprisingly to me there were a number of offices here too, apparently related to cultural heritage administration and art history and documentation.
Multiple stairways lead up to the walkways along the top edges with merlons*. Picturesque views appear in every direction, even on a cloudy day you could see miles around the city of Naples, island of Capri, parts of the Amalfi coastline, and the Matese mountains.
Spending about an hour and half here, I felt like this was adequate time to walk around the main sections of the fortress without accounting for the art museum. If I ever find myself back in Naples, would certainly come by again, and hopefully catch a sunny day!
*in a defensive wall with repeating pattern of ridges, this is the raised block of the ridge used by defenders for cover. Crenels refer to the narrower lowered sections between the ridges used for archers to shoot thru. read more