Naples isn't Florence, Venice, or Rome and nothing could have screamed that louder than Certosa e Museo di San Martino, a diamond in the rough.
Located at the very top of the Vomero district and sitting beside the imposing Castel Sant'Elmo, the Museo di San Martino does little to outwardly win your heart. Here, you need to work to reveal the wow factor.
Immediately after paying the entry fee I walked into a tired-looking courtyard. As one of the first things you encounter, it's easy to wonder what you've gotten yourself into. Next you'll wonder how to find the treasures talked about on the audio guide you rented. Pro tip: don't bother renting the audio guide, something I rarely say.
Next up is a beautiful church, classic Italian, ornate and lovely.
Friends I was with walked from here through another building, then out to the gardens. I'm not sure what's happened since some of the photos posted here on yelp, but it was impossible to walk through the gardens thinking anything other than "how hard would it be to pull some weeds?" The garden is a lovely stroll with beautiful views but majorly unkempt.
So look a little harder.
It wasn't until I began wandering off the beaten path here that I discovered riches. Naples is known for their hand-carved nativity scenes, assembled by locals at the start of December. Here, you'll find the best of that genre, featuring entire city scenes, flying angels, babies, toddlers, water features, the poor and unbathed... the list goes on. One of the things Neopolitans are quick to tell about their nativity scenes is how realistic the figures are. That is: the people are not made to look like models. They feature the faces of the the needy, the unattractive, those generally not featured in the arts from this time, making the scenes all the more interesting.
Anyhow, there's a heavenly assortment of nativity-scapes here including a huge one that goes dark and then brightens to daylight. This section is a must-see.
There's tons of other ancient (circa the 1500's) sculptures here as well as some fabulous views of Mount Vesuvius. There was honestly more to see here than I even saw.
In the end, despite Museo di San Martino not being a place that screams "see me", it is. read more