You would have to be living under a rock to have not heard about Melbourne hot spot Chin Chin; the pan-Asian street food inspired canteen that is still heaving years after opening. It is one of those indescribable phenomenons of any dining scene, where somewhere opens that creates a zeitgeist and captures the minds of the dining public and inspires people to line up for over an hour to taste the food.
The space is laid-back but stylish with pop art influences splashed about and quirkiness in spades (learning to speak Thai when visiting the toilets for one). This is canteen-style dining so expect to be intimately close with the table next door; another choice is to sit at the bar or kitchen seats which afford a little more space and you can watch as the bar staff sling cocktails or the chefs fire up the wok. The pumping soundtrack bounces between modern top 40 and classics from the 70s and 80s, making sure there is a bit of something for everyone.
The staff are friendly, personable and easy-going, but this is a well-oiled machine so they are professional and efficient as well. On the drinks side, the aproned 'Wine Guy' will help you navigate the all-Australian wine list, designed to support local winemakers; along with a snappy beer list, as nothing goes better with a spicy dish than an ice cold beer. As with any restaurant of this generation, cocktails are a big focus here with Asian versions of classic cocktails that are a great way to settle in when you arrive.
The food starts with a Thai focus but is happy to hop and jump around, with soujourns over to India with a curry or two, but mostly it centres across South-East Asia. The menu is designed to share, with plenty smaller dishes, and really that is the best way to tackle the fairly long menu so you can try as much as you want. The best approach is just to throw caution to the wind and go for their 'feed me' option and be bombarded with dish after dish of amazing food. Chef Benjamin Cooper nails the bold flavours of Thailand with liberal use of fiery chilli and the acid tang of lime, this is in-your-face food and does not hold anything back. Which is not to say that there is not restraint and balance, one of my favourite dishes to start with is the kingfish sashimi, lightly drizzled with coconut cream and a kick of lime, chilli and thai basil, which is both subtle and delicious.
The other 'little something' dishes that I tend to go for are the pork "roll ups", a pile of braised, pulled suckling pig to DIY wrap up in thin pancakes and topped with slaw and herbs. Fried corn fritters come with a sticky chilli jam, perfect wrapped up in a crispy lettuce leaf; and that old favourite salt and pepper squid is fresh and tender with a salty, sweet, spicy nuoc cham sauce on the side. Some of the best dishes on the menu come from the "Green stuff" section, the best being a salad of crispy-skinned barramundi and hunks of unctuous caramelised pork, brightened up with batons of green apple. The other pseudo-salad that I love is under 'Barbecue' and if it is hot enough to make a tiger cry then it will surely bring on a bout of chilli sweats. The Crying Tiger is strips of chargrilled wagyu dressed in fiery chilli and addictively sour tamarind dressing, with fried noodles and, one of my favourite Thai flavours, ground toasted rice which is nutty and a great element of texture.
On my last visit Ben was testing out a new curry and gave us a try of it, a Southern Thai style yellow curry, with a lovely sourness and a great level of heat, with pepper cured mackerel and chunks of sweet pineapple. Two of the other main sized dishes to go for are the beef short ribs, slow cooked and caramelised, these are meltingly tender with the meat falling off the bone; and the Chinook salmon, smothered in red curry paste, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled until the flesh flakes apart.
On the sweet side, an ice cream sundae will keep any sweet tooth happy, made with palm sugar ice cream, with its beautiful caramel notes, topped with chunks of sticky salted honeycomb and lashings of tart lime syrup. My favourite is the rich coconut infused sago with creamed corn ice cream (trust me it works) and the crunch of puffed wild rice; it is a damn good dessert and banishes the memory of awful sago dishes I had growing up.
There is a reason Chin Chin is still so popular, because it is still knocking out great Asian food that does not hold back on flavour and chilli and does so in a fun and lively space. Do not be put off by the no bookings policy or waiting to get a table, they turn over fast so you will not be waiting long, and you can always settle in the bar downstairs for a drinks and nibbles while you wait. Otherwise get there early or late (it is open almost every day of the year and open until late at night), or grab a group of friends and book their one table which is open for bookings which seats 10-12 and settle in for a 'feed me' feast. read more