Aside from traditional Maranao food which has been quite widespread in Metro Manila, another exciting cuisine for me to discover is Tausug food. One of my best friends in grad school in UP is this adorable Tausug Muslimah, and she has always egged me on into trying her homeland's best recipes. She has lived most of her life in Manila, though, and she gets her Tausug food from her yaya who is also from Zamboanga, that's why she isn't much of a guide as far as Tausug food in Manila is concerned, so I had to explore and find these spots myself.
One of my favorite Tausug restaurants is Gayyah's Pagkaunan, which is a fairly recent addition to Malate and Ermita's string of Halal restaurants. Gayyah's not only serves Tausug food, but they also have Arabic, Pakistani, Malaysian and Indonesian, fare. Outside is a sign that they are also a Halal butcher and grocery store. What I love about Gayyah's is their clean and very well-kept premises. I don't mean any offense, but most Halal restaurants that I have been to don't really care much about their look or their presentation. Gayyah's is spotless, bright and cheerful.
The food here is carinderia-type, and it is mostly composed of traditional Tausug fare combined with Halal Filipino food such as adobo and other saucy viands. What I like about this store, though, is their traditional Tausug "tiyula itum" which they describe as South Mindanao's black soup. It is indeed a strange color of green-black: the curry gives it a greenish tinge, while the beef is completely blackened by burnt coconut flakes. It has a sour broth that reminds me a lot of the Ilonggo "linaga" that I enjoyed as a kid. On my first time, I finished the entire bowl with gusto. A P50 serving had a few chunks of tender beef in it. I have never had anything quite like tiyula itum before and it definifely was a cultural experience for me. When I went there for the first time, the ladies were very helpful and they patiently answered my questions about Tausug food. I have gone back twice, because the satti wasn't available the first time I went. The food is cheap and clean, and the service is very friendly and warm. Moro hospitality at its best! read more