The waterfall pools that you will find here may well be the world's greatest natural hot tubs (http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/U5FVgLodaL6xVc__Vhx_gQ?select=PkUB2xA8ahqy5DxUWARbHQ). They easily rank right up there next to the sublime Pacific cliffside thermal springs at Big Sur's famous Esalen Institute (http://www.yelp.com/biz/esalen-institute-big-sur#hrid:hlrerG7jf3I51HcYNhC-Pw/src:self). These, however, have the advantage of being free and open to the public year-round.
Well, almost year-round. While some of the hot springs at Jerry Johnson are accessible twelve months of the year, the waterfall pools are submerged by nearby Warm Springs Creek from the spring snow melt until late fall, when the water level in the creek drops low enough to reveal a series of circular pools, enclosed by polished river stones, into which gushing waterfalls of steaming hot water pour (http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/U5FVgLodaL6xVc__Vhx_gQ?select=vtBDO6Sb98f0uAnYjXriwg, http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/U5FVgLodaL6xVc__Vhx_gQ?select=wIa3oXB9aBOgNnUdHayCUw).
Coming here in the winter to soak is quite simply an unforgettable - and potentially life-altering - outdoor experience. Even getting to the trailhead parking area off of Highway 12 is an adventure by most people's standards, since it is located in a comparatively remote part of the Clearwater National Forest in Northern Idaho. Crossing the Lochsa, a very beautiful salmon, steelhead, and trout river (Imagine "A River Runs Through It") is accomplished by a wooden cable suspension bridge (http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/U5FVgLodaL6xVc__Vhx_gQ?select=nGs-Tj5PE9Dht9cBHMnCqQ). From the other side of the Lochsa, a mile-long trail leads through red cedars, firs, and lodgepole pines up and over a slight rising ridge to the pools themselves, which you can reach by descending carefully on water-slick rock to Warm Springs Creek (http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/U5FVgLodaL6xVc__Vhx_gQ?select=Pe2fV-oAFUmniB-MwhhKEg).
Once there, depending on who else is nearby, you can either strip naked or soak in a bathing suit. I've done both, but each time I also got up to plunge into the icy waters of the creek before jumping back into the main tub into which a fifteen-foot waterfall with steaming hot water coming down from the cliffs above empties, ensuring a 104 degree soak. This hot-and-cold technique is a lot of fun and adds to the excitement.
Honestly, where else can you hike in deep snow and ice to an eternally green and misty waterfall where rounded, smooth river stones form natural tubs in which you can soak your entire body in a state of wilderness bliss? And when you get too hot, all you have to do is step into a snow-melt chilled crystal clear stream that winds its way through steep tree-filled ravines where human beings rarely stay long to visit?
(Slight pause, to let you take all of this in).
Time's up! Any other suggestions?
(...)
I didn't think so.
So, yes, this is one amazing place. Please keep it that way. More than a few locals and UofM students from Missoula come here to drink, have sex, and burn candles at night, so my advice is to come early and midweek if possible. The solitude is worth the extra effort. Bring a bathing suit just in case. On one visit, I arrived to find a husband and wife with their four children (ages 8-13 or so), so I was glad my trunks were in my backpack. They were great hot tub companions, and I enjoyed their company a lot.
Of course, I've also been here completely alone, in the middle of winter, with snow falling on the cedars and the mists rising from the pools (http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/U5FVgLodaL6xVc__Vhx_gQ?select=w70qVBmVHjAbiAYDxr8DSw), with the only sounds being the pounding rhythm of the plunging waterfall, the relaxing murmur of the rushing creek, the steady pulse of my beating heart, and the hushed exhalations of my own breath. I sank into a wet blanket of warm water, shut my eyes to the external world, and opened my soul to another dimension of consciousness. Words fail me at this point. It hardly seems real, except that my memory tells me that it happened.
So come visit Idaho. Bring the kids if they are up for the rigors of a long trip; make it a romantic weekend getaway for two; or just say to hell with the daily routine, hop in the car, and go on a solo vision quest to a place where the rivers run clear and cold and the roads will lead you to hot springs happiness. There is so much more to this state than its famous potatoes. If you doubt the veracity of my words, then these waterfall pools will make you think and feel otherwise. On my Yelping word of honor: this I will gladly guarantee. read more