Sometimes in the middle of the day - say, a Wednesday - I would just feel the need to stop, step…read moreaway from the desk, surround myself with interesting art and engage in a tête-à-tête with an office friend over some reasonably-priced, unpretentious French food. At that's what Le Coude Rouge at Alliance Française de Manille is precisely for.
Functioning primarily as the language school's cafeteria, the hall it occupies also hosts exhibits, so the atmosphere would change depending on the art currently displayed. The thing that remains constant though is the no-frills, freshly prepared fare: traditional French recipes cooked using mostly locally sourced ingredients.
I almost always order the Salade Nicoise, freshly prepared with the greens and onions still crisp, which I would douse with their seemingly simple yet orgasmic vinaigrette dressing - a concoction I still cannot manage to hack to this very day. From here, I usually fast track to the end, straight to the Café Maison (how could I say no at 35 pesos per cup?) and my favorite dessert of theirs: the Tarte Au Citron, sharp and tangy and surprisingly pairs well with the coffee. When the tart is not available, I get the Pain Au Chocolat, or chocolate croissant but somehow calling it such makes it feel (and perhaps also taste) fancier.
I have also tried, and liked, some of their main courses: there's the Fruits de Mer Ou Papillottes, which more than anything is really drama in a meal as it is seafood with buttered vegetables baked in a paper pouch that I get to unravel before I dig in. Another dish that used to make me happy is the Petites Saucisses Ala Provencale - the mini sausages actually taste gamy and spicy and is further enhanced by rich tomato stew. (Though the last time I was there, this item was not in their menu.) On the other hand, the Coq Au Vin reminds me of our very own chicken adobo, except of course, this version is cooked in red wine. It should be mentioned that they serve wine appropriate to these dishes, in case you're in the mood for it.
If you are interested in a lighter selection, perhaps for an afternoon snack, I would vouch for the Quiche Lorraine, and the Croque-Madame, which is actually just well-made ham and cheese sandwich served with an egg on top. Also, you know, for some reason, their French fries here is awesome. Maybe, this is the only place on Earth where I munch on them with the spicy Dijon mustard. And since this is a French restaurant, you couldn't go wrong with the Soupe A L'oignon, which is thick and tasty, unlike the consommé we are used too.
But the real specialty of the cafeteria is the warm staff: a pair of jolly men who are always well-dressed, which I presume takes after Paris street fashion. With them is a personable lady in a chef's uniform who usually stays behind the counter, just by the espresso machine. (Later on, I found out that she is the talent behind the tarts I have grown to love.) Amusing is how they would greet bonjour! from across the room, and perhaps I have come here too often, but they are perceptive enough to predict or even make suggestions on what I might want to eat. Point is, they understand what they serve and a guest may expect them to be helpful in putting together a meal, which is a big help when faced with a menu dominated by a foreign tongue.
Perhaps it could be the only mess hall in Manila where it is normal for conversations in French to swell in the air like the language truly dwells here, and for people with black hair to be outnumbered by blondes. In short, there are days when I would feel that I am the foreigner, which actually only succeeds in turning these lunch breaks into micro vacations which always end exactly as pleasant as they start. With the wait staff putting on the same sincere smile they had as they greeted me upon arrival, as they bid "merci" as I put away the table napkin and rise from my seat, to which I had learned to reply "de rien!"
