We went to Parker Ranch thinking - we'll see some cattle, but actually, we saw none (the 15,000 head are all up in the hills, apparently), but what we did experience, a lesson in Hawaii's history that includes the chronology of the families who have owned and managed the ranch over the years, plus the solitude and country lushness of the environs, made the visit memorable.
We started at the museum that gives you a timeline of who started the ranch, who managed it, and what happened to it through its history. It was interesting to view the timeline of the ranch on poster boards: starting with John Parker, an English sailor who landed in Hawaii in the 19th century and eventually bought the land that became the Parker Ranch. A power struggle developed in the early 20th century when Alfred Carter, guardian to the great-great-granddaughter of John Parker (Thelma), managed but also quietly bought up part of the ranch, mortgaged what he owned and bought the rest from the son of John Parker (Samuel), becoming its sole owner (on behalf of Thelma for whom he remained guardian) for a time. Thelma's son Richard Smart inherited the Parker Ranch, when both his mother Thelma and his sister died when he was only two years old, and Alfred Carter managed the ranch until Smart came of age. For most of his early adult life, Smart left Hawaii for a career on Broadway, and left the ranch to be managed by others, until he returned towards the end of his life to reside in Waimea and Honolulu and take an active role in all of the ranch's affairs. The land the Mauna Kea Beach hotel was built on was leased, on a 99 year lease, by Richard Smart to its developer Laurence Rockefeller in the 1960s.
The ranch today is managed by a trust, for the benefit of the people of Hawaii (beneficiaries: North Hawai'i Community Hospital, Parker School Trust Corporation, Hawai'i Preparatory Academy and Hawai'i Community Foundation). The Ranch itself was mired in a lawsuit by some 200 claimed descendants of the Parkers, who claimed that they and not Richard Smart were its owners, but this lawsuit apparently failed and the trust was created when Smart died. Smart's sons also sued after their father's death to invalidate the trust, but this lawsuit was settled a few years after Smart died.
The beef from the Parker Ranch cattle is sold to Safeway and Whole Foods supermarkets located on the Hawaiian Islands. The ranch is currently about 130,000 acres, still impressive, down from its peak of 500,000. during Richard Smart's life.
We enjoyed walking through the museum (Puuopelu ) as well as the small home built by John Parker in 1819 (Mana Hale).
Also located on the grounds are some picnic tables (located next to what must have once been a swimming pool) where we ate a picnic lunch we had brought, and during the time we were there eating, we never saw another soul. Very relaxing, bucolic environment.
Free to visit. Open 8am to 4pm daily. read more