This review is for dinner, 4/20/17.
Fifty years ago I had just graduated from culinary school and took a job as a sous chef in Lucca, Italy. I had little knowledge of northern food (southern was the cuisine known in most of Europe and in America) but it didn't take me long to appreciate and admire what the north had to offer. So, during the planning of my trip to Mexico, Pasta y Basta was my "must go" destination.
When my cousin and I arrived, we were greeted warmly and were made to immediately feel at home. The restaurant is rather small with exposed palm thatching for the roof--very charming! We ordered polenta con funghi for an appetizer and we both had the ossobuco for entrees. After the order was taken, we were treated to the complimentary soup of the day. Today it was a puree of mixed vegetables topped with tiny croutons. Did I detect a hint of chile? A nice nod to Mexico. Flavors were balanced and complex and left me wanting to eat about a gallon! The customary bread and olive oil were also served; not an insipid, flavorless one as is often served but one with a fruity goodness that stood on its own.
The polenta con funghi arrived in short order. Triangles of poleta topped with fried mushrooms and covered in a creamy gorgonzola sauce. The sauce did not overpower as well it could if not applied with a deft hand; it complemented the polenta and mushrooms perfectly.
The ossobuco was a thing of beauty. Many restaurants serve it but they make the mistake of cooking it in a strong tomato sauce, basically a pasta sauce. It's the easy way and most patrons wouldn't know the difference. Chef Christian remains true to tradition and places the emphasis on the meatiness of the sauce. Thick and unctuous, complex and refined, it was the perfect foil for the pork (which was cooked perfectly, in case you're wondering). The grilled veggies were the perfect counterpoint to the richness of the sauce.
For desert, I chose the limoncello--that it was homemade was obvious. Most I've tasted go overboard on the lemon peel, causing the end result to be bitter. Limoncello is best enjoyed when you "sniff then sip;" sniff for the lemon essence to play upon the senses then sip. Try it; you'll see what I mean. And many thanks for the complimentary "other fruit" (yes, chef--I knew what it was!) digestive. My cousin, stuffed with ossobuco yet yearning for desert, chose some tiramisu to take home. She generously split it with me and, like the rest of the meal, was delicious.
Kudos to Chef Christian and all the team who ply their craft so skillfully and yes, lovingly--that will be obvious when you taste the food. So please visit this little gem from Italy; just take a bite, close your eyes, and you're there. read more