I highly recommend Pat and his crew. They did a great job. Very reliable and easy to work with.

Quality work, quick and clean unlike others in the same trade. Came on short notice and finished on time.

Pat and his guys are fantastic! they are professional, courteous and a pleasure to work with. they were highly recommended by another contractor in the area. They drywalled and textured a complex ADU for me, they even worked over the weekend to get the job done because my schedule got backed up. I couldn't be happier. read more

I own a rental in SB, as an absentee owner I had a great expericene with Pat. Myself and my tenants were able to easily coordinate the needed repair. Excellent drywall patch, courteous, good communication and easy to work. I will use him again if the need arises. read more

I was initially taken aback by the two star review average until I noticed that there was only 1 review (and especially after reading it. This review is really a response to Cameron C.'s low 2 star review. I have not yet used Pat Thomas Drywall but he came highly recommended to me from a very trusted source. By reading Cameron's review it is very clear to me that he knows very little about the construction process and the chain of responsibility but he needed someone to direct his anger at. His frustrations with wavy walls and gaps between trim and drywall are grossly misdirected. It is the framers and/or GC's responsibility to straighten walls before the drywaller ever shows up. This is a process sometimes called "shim and shave" which was evidently not even considered by the GC. Another step that the framers should have taken while initially building the walls is to "crown" (this is a verb) ... crown each stud in the same direction when building every wall. Crowning 101: The "crown" is the natural curve of the board. If one does not take the time take the time to "crown" (verb) the studs in the same direction then the end result will definitely be a wavy wall. To crown a stud means to hold it right up next to your eyeball looking down the length of the stud and determine the direction of the natural curve (crown) of the stud. Very often it is very slight and difficult to detect. If that is the case then the stud is pretty darn straight and it won't matter which way it is installed. But more often than not there is, at a minimum, a slight "crown" and you want to make sure all studs are crowned in the same direction. Now, going forward again to the shim and shave step, even a wall that was crowned properly when it was built will still need some love before it's ready for drywall. The studs have likely dried out and moved a little bit since the wall was constructed so don't assume that crowning studs alone makes straight walls. It only makes shimming and shaving much easier. Now that Cameron has hopefully learned a little something about how to create a reasonably straight wall we can now talk about trim gaps. Again, the drywaller did not frame the walls, set the windows, mill/install the jamb extensions or the trim. So Cameron ought to have a conversation with the GC, his framers and finish carpenters. The extra charge for the repair is legit! If it seems high it may have also consisted of a "recoup" $amount for wasting his time trying to deal with such bad framing. They do not price jobs with the assumption that they will have to use twice as much mud and spend extra time flattening what should have already been (reasonably) flat. Side note: I keep using the term "reasonably" because not only are houses are built with wood which is an unstable and imperfect product, but there is also a combination of composite wood products (that do not shrink at all) solid wood products (that do shrink...the greater mass the board has, the more it will shrink) and metal or steel products that expand and contract with temperature. All of these products are often sandwiched right next to one and other. Another factor is human factor. Some humans do better work that others and no one is perfect. I understand that perfection may not have been C With all of that said there is a reasonable expectation of the drywall contractor to make straight lines at inside corners, wall to ceiling corners and outside corner beads. Cameron doesn't seem to be complaining about any of that though. I decided that it would be fair to Pat Thomas to off set the 2 star review with a 5 star so that consumers don't automatically run away when they see the low review average. I intend to solicit Pat Thomas Drywall and if we do work together I'll revisit the Yelp reviews when we're done. Dave A. read more

Pat and his crew were great, fast professional, on time, clean and reliable. I highly recommend you use Pat Thomas.

I recently made some renovations to my kitchen, and Pat Thomas Drywall's worker did a beautiful job matching the existing pattern of plaster in my 1948 Spanish home. What can I say, other than I look forward to hiring them again for my next project! read more

We recently remodeled a section of our house built in 1925, and we needed a significant amount of drywall, both on old and new walls. I couldn't reach the drywaller we'd used in the past, so we agreed to let our general contractor use his guy, Pat Thomas, including paying the GC's markup. Contractors like to say drywallers are magicians that fix all the imperfections left by the carpenters. This is an old house, so there were a lot of imperfections to start with. But there was no magic here, just fast and shoddy work. The finished walls looked flat and smooth--as they do when they're white and freshly sanded--but as soon as I started installing the baseboard, trim and crown, I discovered that the walls were anything but flat, including many that were brand new. There were huge humps and valleys everywhere, which became painfully obvious as soon as you put a straight piece of trim against them. Apparently, the drywallers couldn't be bothered leveling out the sheetrock with those cardboard shims they're supposed to use, nor did they use plaster to flatten things out afterwards. They couldn't be bothered building up the plaster to meet the edge of the windows--there was anything from 0 - 1/4" difference between the two, but it was never consistent. Good luck hiding a undulating gap like that with window trim. Even along existing trim, like the stair stringers, which should have provided a good guide, the plaster wove and ducked atrociously, which you could easily see without a straight edge. Since these guys left, I've spent weeks (and probably 20 gallons of plaster) flattening out walls, sanding out humps, and trying to straighten things out myself--doing what these guys should have done to begin with. Other annoyances: I had to ask for moisture-resistant "green board" drywall around the shower and in our bathroom. Apparently, they were just going to use standard drywall. Cutting corners to save a few pennies? Perhaps most frustrating of all: in the middle of the drywalling job, we had a plumbing accident that flooded part of our house. As a result, we had to rip out approximately 4-5 sheets of drywall that had just been put in and let the walls dry out. Luckily, that was the only real damage, and it happened before they'd even started taping & plastering. The plumber took responsibility and agreed to pay for the repairs. But when our GC gave us the bill, Pat had tacked on about $1100 for this, which was totally outrageous. Pat's response? "What do you care? The plumber's paying for it, right?" It took some heated arguments with both our GC and Pat to find out that this charge wasn't just for the flood damage, but a bunch of other extras that weren't in the original estimate. I guess they found it convenient to stick it to the plumber rather than talk to me about revising the estimate. read more

Pat has been a great subcontractor for me in the past - who ever wrote the bad review knows nothing about construction expecting the dry-waller to fix the framers mistakes. what a moron - guess if the dry-waller makes a mistake the painter should fix it! read more