Great ribs, one serious caveat
Tucked into the heart of…read moreColonia Nueva Santamaría, El Paisa has built its reputation around one thing: thick, charcoal grilled beef short ribs, and when you stick to that specialty, the reputation holds up.
My recommendation before you even look at the menu is to order the costillas and add a huarache. For the uninitiated, a huarache is an oblong corn masa base, fried or griddled, shaped like a traditional woven sandal and typically stuffed with refried beans and topped with salsa, onions, and cheese. At El Paisa they crown it with your costilla, and the combination is exactly as satisfying as it sounds. Simple, bold, and the reason to make the trip. Just know that the huarache con costilla and cheese will run you $525 MXN, which is on the expensive side for a place of this kind, no frills, and entirely unpretentious. The setting does not justify the price tag.
The aguas frescas are worth ordering as well. We had the horchata, made with rice and milk, along with mango strawberry and mango pineapple. All were fresh, flavorful, and safe to drink. There is also an ice cream spot next door that prepares the aguas frescas and is worth exploring on your way out. The staff was friendly throughout, which adds a welcoming touch.
Now for the part I cannot leave out.
Two members of our party ordered the Tampiqueña steak, a classic Mexican dish featuring a thin strip of grilled beef served with a red enchilada, refried beans, and rice. Within about ten minutes of arriving home both of them were seriously ill. I cannot say with absolute certainty what caused it, but the timing was difficult to ignore and they were the only ones at the table who ordered that dish.
Two stars. The costillas earn their reputation and the huarache is not to be missed. But until the kitchen demonstrates more consistency across the menu, ordering anything beyond the featured specialty feels like a risk not worth taking.
