What a genuine find in the heart of London. When Time Out London recently identified the 101 best things to do in town, #53 was booking a 12 Noon reservation at this North African spot. Well, they also do bookings when they open for dinner at 5PM, so I snagged a couple of seats since we had tickets later that evening for "& Juliet" nearby in the West End. Located in funky-cool Neal's Yard in Covent Garden, the tiny space is dominated by a horseshoe-shaped counter with all the kinetic plate preparation occurring in the middle. From our stools, we had a prime view of all the appetizing culinary creations.
The menu was deceptively straightforward even if it required translation from our patient server. We started with a tasty nishnushim (snack), the £11.50 Moroccan Cigars, deep-fried taquito-like rolled dough stuffed with spicy lamb sausage and accompanied by thick yogurt and harissa (photo: https://bit.ly/3zIRc9R). This was followed by the £5.00 Naan e Barbari, handmade fresh in front of us in a tandoor oven. This produced a puffed, smoked flatbread covered in olive oil (photo: https://bit.ly/3JgnrQN). Two satisfying dipping sauces accompanied the naan at our discretion. The first was the £7.00 Muhammara, a spicy, almost creamy roasted red pepper dip sitting atop olive oil (photo: https://bit.ly/3oGEgv2).
The second dish was the £7.00 Chickpea Masabacha, a deconstructed hummus made especially fresh by whole chickpeas (photo: https://bit.ly/3JeJJmb). We ordered a winner in the vegetable side dish, the £12.00 Cauliflower Jaffa Style, seared and accompanied by a coriander tomato salsa (photo: https://bit.ly/3Q0DTa2). The savory high point came next, the £23.00 Hamra Octopus, a substantial octopus tentacle marinated in a pomegranate molasses and hot garlic olive oil (photo: https://bit.ly/3oDPHn2). It didn't have the usual chewiness of octopus, and the sweetness of the molasses enhanced the flavor substantially.
Our other entree was the £32.00 Lamb Sabzi, a pair of succulent grilled chops that managed to be pillow-tender and was probably the only plate that came close to predictable (photo: https://bit.ly/3zl2rUD). Believe it or not, we convinced ourselves we had room for dessert after all that. We first went for the £10.00 Taal Misu, their own special take on tiramisu served in a jar (photo: https://bit.ly/3Q4wDdh), but the absolute scene stealer was the £12. 50 Knafeh, a Middle Eastern specialty of spun pastry soaked in a sugar-based syrup and layered with cheese, pistachio nuts, and dried apricots (photo: https://bit.ly/3vpLbwa). It was the perfect ending to a meal that put us in sensory overload without getting all fussy about it.
FOOD - 5 stars...remarkable small plates that transcend their deceptively simple execution
AMBIANCE - 5 stars..a happening place with a great view of all the action
SERVICE - 5 stars...very personal service and quite responsive
TOTAL - 5 stars...a culinary knockout and a convivial environment make this a complete winner
RELATED - Exploring London? Here's a collection of places I've visited and reviewed: https://bit.ly/3zFACrx read more