I realised, after my last review, that I've still never reviewed the Elephant House. I'm not sure how as I bring most people here when they're visiting me.
"Do you really?" I can hear you thinking. "But you've given it three stars!" Well, yes. As a cafe, it's not so hot. It's kind of expensive, although it's a lovely space. The service is as quick as it can be, given that it's almost always heaving in here with tourists wondering which table J K Rowling used to sit at. The cakes are fine. The hot chocolate is fine. It's just a nice place.
It's funny, but when you're inside you wouldn't necessarily know this was "the place". The theme is, fittingly, elephants. There are elephants everywhere. It's quite sweet. People don't come for the elephants, though. They come for the magic.
The Elephant House, you see, touts itself as The Birthplace Of Harry Potter. Everyone knows the tale - that Jo Rowling, a penniless single mother, used to spend hours in an Edinburgh cafe, writing the book about a boy wizard that would, once published, lift her almost overnight to international literary superstardom. Well, the Elephant House, like many other establishments in Edinburgh, claims to be that cafe. Unlike many other establishments, however, here people have bought into the story. The tourists are fully invested in it. You can see how, gazing out of the large window at the back directly onto the majestic crags of the castle, someone might conceive the notion of Hogwarts.
On the website, there's even an interview with the writer from shortly before the publication of the second book, filmed at the cafe (which incidentally is worth a watch because it's endearing how thrilled she is with sales that now pale in comparison to current figures).
Now, I don't want to get into a discussion on the nature of truth; this is a cafe review. BUT - whether or not it's true that she actually wrote there is, I think, not important. What's important is that everyone believes it. It's got a kind of truth of its own. Which leads me on to why I bring everyone here for a quick cup of tea, despite the big crowds, the big prices, the fact that while the food is pleasant there are many other places doing much nicer stuff nearby...
The toilets. You have to go into the toilets.
Obviously, I don't know what the men's loo is like, but if it's like the ladies', then it's a strangely uplifting experience. The walls are covered in graffiti: scribbled letters of gratitude, love and affection to the writer who changed the world and to the characters who are so real to so many. There are silly references, in-jokes about in-jokes, sketchy doodles and deeply heartfelt missives of appreciation, and never has finding words of love written on the wall of a public toilet been so innocent and so beautiful. Hogwarts might be fictional, but the magic here is real. read more