Opened in 2014 by chef Michael O'Hare (who is eerily reminiscent of a beefed up Vince Noir), above Flannels in Leeds city centre, MBTC has been garnering a lot (A LOT) of attention from the Mancunian food Twitterati, who have been taking the food pilgrimage over the Pennines and returning with full stomachs and a plethora of superlatives.
It's not just Manchester's finest who have been raving about it however, the restaurant also gained national recognition from Marina O'Loughlin in the form of this glowing review in the Guardian back in March, and so we were left with no other alternatives but to see what the fuss was about for ourselves.
To begin we were given a table full of 'snacks', that were beautiful and quirky in both flavour and presentation.
A bag of pork rinds with yuzu and olive powder. Everything was edible, even the bag! Then perfectly balance langoustine (raw), marinated in honey and lavender, pata negra, grated frozen apple. The ethical foie gras mousse, malt fried pasta was deliciously rich and melt-in-the-mouth.
Once the snacks had been polished off the dishes that followed were equally as brilliant. First up was an oyster cooked in its shell to absorb its own juice and served chilled with a mock pearl made from a puree of oyster, escabeche sauce, oyster leaf and vinaigrette. Ridiculously good. Then hake cheek, pil-pil. Wonderful food, even better crockery!
Sweetbreads followed - veal throat, sweet and sour Hong Kong style, ice cold tomato and strawberry consommé. Crispy on the outside and incredibly tender on the inside. Why I love offal in one dish!
The cod loin with salt and sugar cured crispy potatoes, dashi of toasted skin, ink and vinegar was a particular highlight. The fish perfectly cooked and seasoned, with the contrasting crispy potatoes adding a salty crunchiness. The fact it was served by Michael helped a little too...!
Iberian milk-fed lamb, juice of Gordal olive, Seville orange, ras-el-hanout, was my least favourite dish, however, this was purely due to my personal tastes (not partial to orange in savoury dishes). The lamb was perfectly tender and the fat crispy on the outside, soft on the inside.
The 'main' dish of secreto Ibérico, ajo blanco and BBQ cinders, presa Ibérica, sauce of roasted trotters and Fino sherry, mustard was as good a dish I've ever tasted. Up there with The French's ox in coal oil and the veal at Fraiche. The techniques, flavours and textures worked so perfectly together I actually started laughing with elation with each mouthful.
Onto the desserts. Firstly, lemon curd, fresh sherbet, white chocolate, honey and cascara water was a beautifully pitched palate cleanser.
The next dessert of violet ice cream, potato and vanilla custard, salt and vinegar rice, beetroot vinegar shouldn't work but my god does it. With my inferior culinary knowledge I can't even begin to explain how it works, it just does, and has to be tasted to be believed. Sweet, smooth, sour, rich, savoury - everything you would want from a dessert.
Finally, praline and passionfruit cupcake, freeze-dried berries followed by coffee, ceps and white chocolate was a perfect way to finish.
And so concludes my journey to find The Man Behind the Curtain, and what a journey it was, with the added bonus of not having to dispose of any witches to get there.
I've honestly never left a restaurant in such awe of the skill of the chef. This was cooking at it's finest, like art. But don't be fooled by what may be perceived as gimmickry, Michael's dishes are as perfect in flavour as they are in aesthetics, and it's genuinely thrilling. Bollocks of steel? Damn f*****g straight. read more