I did enjoy Max's very much, but a few things irked me enough to lose the 5th star. But I can be a…read morehard grader, and my expectations were set high by several enthusiastic mentions by locals and excellent reviews online. Not perfect but I still recommend it wholeheartedly and would love to return.
We made a reservation for 6:00 and for a little while we were the only ones there. Did we even need a reservation? Yes. It was full by the time we left. And I'm sure summer is harder.
There's a small selection of wines by the glass, all of which I've never heard of, mostly of European origin. We both liked our López De Heredia tempranillo and I chose the same when I had a second glass.
The menu is prix-fix, sort of. Starter plus main for €49 - though there's a small surcharge for some items, like my scallops appetizer. Dessert is extra but inexpensive in comparison (€7-8) If you're a picky eater be sure to check the menu before coming and make sure something appeals. There's nothing crazy weird here but the selection is small.
We had no trouble with the menu choices. My Sauté Scallops starter was prepared with venison broth, lovage, celeriac, Coppa ham, Irish Winter Chanterelles, wild leeks, peas, and cream and was truly excellent and very pretty. I particularly liked the slight caramelization of the tops of the scallops, the subtle flavors and textures of the vegetables, and how the broth flavor changed as the cream (which was apparently whipped) slowly melted in.
The wife's Baked Goat's Cheese, with wilted leeks, roast butternut squash, pumpkin seed, confit of shallots in red wine, and hazelnut oil was also excellent, and beautiful.
My main was Slow Cooked Irish Pork Belly: hint of 5 spice, rhubarb puree, carrot with lovage, braised local cabbage. I did like it, especially how all these different flavors somehow worked together (5-spice, rhubarb, and lovage - who knew!) And I finally figured out that the crusty part on top wasn't overly dried fat to be removed but a layer of sugar, caramelized, dark brown and which shattered like glass when cut into. Very intriguing.
What I didn't like about it was the haphazard presentation - the various ingredients arrayed around the plate in random fashion with a single chive thrown on top seemingly as an afterthought - and that the portion was a bit small for an entree (as was the wife's, while both the starters were generously sized).
The wife's main was Pan Fried Irish Lamb Cutlets, with chestnut mushrooms, Meli-Melo of vegetables, Sacred Basil Jus. What is meli-melo? French for mess or jumble, but it sounds better, right? As for the sacred basil, it's Indian and has a spicy, peppery, clove-like flavor not like the kind we're accustomed to. Perfectly cooked lamb cutlets and intriguing flavors but like my entree I thought it was too small (but she was fine with it and even gave me some!)
All entrees are served with a side of steamed local potatoes, adorned with just a slight salt crust and chopped chives. I know Ireland is famous for potatoes but this seems rather gimmicky to me.
Dessert selection is very limited. Just 3 that day: Sticky Toffee Pudding, Bourbon Vanilla Crème Brulèe, and a cheese/fruit/nut plate. I've been on a Sticky Toffee Pudding kick lately so I tried that. It was good but nothing special despite their attempts to make it differently. The pear and date compote was too subtle and as for the toffee & green cardamon sauce: I think I liked but there wasn't nearly enough of it. The pudding part was also small for that matter.
As for ambience, it was a nice relaxing setting, even as the room filled up, our small table was by the window and had an assortment of fresh flowers in a vase and a real candle. Our waiter was ok but would only say that the green in the salad we asked about was "some kind of lettuce I think", though on pressing him he did ask the chef who said it was winter purslane. I suspect he's new and will eventually learn how to better handle challenging diners such as ourselves.
