This was definitely the single most stunning spot on the island. Driving across the island from resort-land was impressive in itself - the scenery and weather change dramatically as you drive up towards Waimea, the landscape quickly changes from decades-old lava rocks to rolling green hills dotted with farms and ranches. And then suddenly it's raining, when you were in the blazing sun 20 minutes earlier. We were worried the rain might persist across the Waipi'o Valley, but it cleared as we headed down again towards the coast.
The vista itself from the parking area was stunning. The beach stretches across the entire valley, and a waterfall glistens in the distance on the far mountain. Even if you're not going to walk or drive down, the view is worth a stop.
The road down is drivable IF you have 4 wheel drive. It's paved, but extremely narrow and steep with grades of about 30% or steeper in some places. If the road is wet, as it usually is, 2 wheel drive won't get you back out. Our rental SUV didn't come with 4 wheel drive, so we walked down.
The actual descent is just shy of 1,000 feet and a mile long according to the park ranger at the top, and even on foot, is slippery. You'll want sturdy shoes, water and possibly a rain jacket. As you walk down, the temperature rises quickly and the wind disappears, so you'll now want to ditch your sweatshirt. You're sharing the road with cars, but it's not that busy and the cars are moving slowly. There are stunning views along the way, too.
When you get to the bottom of the road, take the road to your right for the beach. There's no sign pointing you to the beach, so it can be confusing. It says the road is closed, but whether on foot or car, you can get to the beach (about 15 minutes on foot). The road is unpaved and muddy with occasional lakes spanning the road - one looked like it was about 2 feet deep - so you'll want a jeep or something like it to drive to the beach.
The beach is totally worth it. It's a black sand beach, but the sand is fine-grained and uncrowded. There were a few cars there, with families spending the day there, but if you can navigate across the river you can walk further up the beach where there are no cars and few people (TIP: cross upstream, not by the beach where you'll likely get swept out to sea by the current). If you're planning to spend a little time here, bring snacks and extra water since there are no services.
Also, if you see a mixed breed dog with tan fur and black spots running around playfully, hang on to your flip flops, hats, socks or anything else that looks like a toy. I spent 10 minutes trying to retrieve one of my wife's socks, and someone else had to chase down their flip flop!
The climb out is, well, steep and never-ending. If you're lucky, you can hitch a ride back up to the top. There are tour vans that come down occasionally, but I think you have to ride them round-trip. I saw people walking down with kids in tow - this seemed like a bad idea unless they were planning to carry them out.
At the junction I mentioned earlier, you can also continue straight towards the back of the valley. We didn't walk that way, but it allegedly leads to a waterfall. There are also hiking trails that let you ascend the mountain on the other side of the valley, but are certainly equally steep. Maybe another time for us! read more