A trip to Holcomb Valley, otherwise known as Bellevill* Ghost Town, begins with stop at the Discovery Center (be aware the Discovery Center has oddball operating hours --- check their website in advance). Traveling this mostly unpaved route requires at least three hours, an all-wheel drive or off-road vehicle, decent walking/hiking shoes and perhaps a picnic lunch (I would also advise an early start, a jacket and plenty of water). There are 12 points of interest along the way, but some of those consist of only the remains of what once was. Two Gun Bill's Saloon, for example, consists only of a few scattered logs --- no standing structure has weathered the test of time. Worse yet, some of the sites that are standing have been vandalized, Bellevill cabin among them.
The "Gold Fever Trail Self-Guided Auto Tour" map from the Discovery Center is essential to the journey. The downside? There are at least two forks in the road, which are not clearly marked. After the last fork, there is only one marker on the road --- that we spotted. (I would not recommend driving a high-profile vehicle here as the rocks can pitch the vehicle tenuously toward cliffside edges.) This is also the part of the drive where one ascends to the highest elevations, which has a disconcerting way of making one doubt whether one has taken the correct road out at all --- if only because one might think that the road ought to head downhill a bit more obviously than it does. The fortunate thing for us is we didn't encounter any drivers coming through the opposite way --- why this is permitted I do not know as there isn't adequate passing room and no place to turn off in some locations.
As my spouse and I began to undertake the most elevated switchbacks on the route out, we were treated to a beautiful sunset over the Apple/Lucerne Valley area below and dramatic vistas of gorges and adjacent peaks. What was not so pleasant about our drive out is that we were mere minutes away from total darkness as we rounded a curve overlooking Baldwin Lake. Looking down the dirt road to the next bend made it appear as if the road took yet another pitch up into the mountains --- enough so that it caused us to contemplate turning back to return the way we came. Fortunately, we made the right call, pressing forward just as darkness settled in. (From Bellevill cabin out to Highway 18, it took nearly an hour with no further stops.)
What will stay with me about the journey through Bellevill Ghost Town is the stillness of the valley --- about the only sound, save the occasional bird, is the wind through the trees surrounding a vast open meadow near Bellevill cabin. What disappoints me about the experience is that many of the historic sites are not intact --- certainly nothing on par with how well preserved Calico is by comparison. Still, what concerns me above all else is that the roads in this area are infrequently marked. We didn't go into the journey expecting street lights, guard rails and pavement but we did expect forks in the road to be better marked, and we weren't prepared for the fact that leaving the valley required us to climb narrow paths to far higher elevations without the benefit of knowing exactly how far the odometer should read.* The ghost town didn't spook us in the least, but making it out of the narrowest and potentially most dangerous aspects of the drive at nightfall was a bit too much excitement for one day.
TIP: Zero out your trip odometer from the Discovery Center, from which point a round-trip is 20 miles.
*Edit: The metal plaque I photographed near the Bellevill cabin, which was dedicated in 1979, indicates that the spelling is Bellevill -- without the "e" on the end -- not "Belleville" as spelled online. read more