However you choose to get to Ocracoke, you will have seen a great many achingly beautiful sights on your way, whether it's coming from the mainland and watching the tiny island materialize in the distance, or on that increasingly exciting trip down 12 from the ferry station on the north end of the island, as you cross over the inlets and creeks, and make your way through a maritime forest. Whatever your approach, with its cheerful palm trees (and sparkly lights at night), Captain's Landing is a welcome sight at the end of a long journey. You'll stop by the office, have a lovely chat with whomever's there, and, as on almost all of our visits, it's likely Captain George will escort you to your room to point out a few of the amenities, and to explain how the satellite TV works. His is a gentle, kind welcome. He'll unlock your door and take you inside, and you'll see a view out your sliding doors that ought to take your breath away. We've done this drill many, many times, and each time, that image of the active calm of the harbor leaves us transfixed. Still, try to pay attention to George (or his alternate - the ladies are exceptionally nice and hospitable, as well)- the welcoming informational spiel is very helpful. We always haul the stuff up to our suite (we prefer the second floor, though the views on the first are nothing to sneeze at, and they come without the schlep upstairs), then head over to Dajio, a great little coastal restaurant across the street, for Doug's crab cakes and a glass of something crisp and nice. Properly sated, we head back to our room, the sun is usually setting, some live tunes are wafting from the Jolly Roger next door (you will likely hear "Sweet Home Alabama" at least twice each night, and should you fancy yourself not inclined to sing along, I can guarantee, by the end of the week, you will sing, and you'll do it with feeling). If it's a clear night, the sun will set in a magnificent way, and for a brief moment, you will think yourself the smartest person alive for bringing yourself to this place. A week's stay will do nothing to discourage this conclusion.
We've stayed in both the cottage and on both floors of the hotel (never the penthouse, which is another flight of stairs but looks smashing). There is a solid feel to the place, and though the accommodations aren't the most ostentatious out there, they are perfectly suited to the Ocracoke vibe. If you want for more, you probably shouldn't have come to the 'Coke in the first place. There's a delightful kitchenette in the suites, and a full, open kitchen in the cottage. Mattresses are firm but forgiving, your sheets will be changed (if you like) every other day. You may change out the bathroom towels with whatever frequency you desire. Housekeeping is unobtrusive and will tidy up, make the bed, load and run (or unload) the dishwasher. If there are any maintenance issues, they will be swiftly dispatched. George and Betty, the dear and charming owners, have a large cache of DVDs in the rental office (on a rainy night, or post-sunset, I recommend Roman Holiday), running a gamut of genres. I don't quite recall the policy about the hotel-owned bicycles, but they're convenient, in any case. They also have golf carts to rent. You might like the bikes for a trip to Springer's Point, which is a must see bit of perfectly-preserved coastland and which doesn't have any parking.
Just about everything you could want (that's offered on the island) is an easy walk away, from excellent dining to groceries, late night ice cream from the Slushy Stand to a tasty bottle from Zillie's Island Pantry. You will spend a lot of time on the deck. We especially like the decks for the suites, which are covered, and if you're fair of complexion, it is possible (with some savvy chair-shifting) to enjoy an entire day outdoors, reading, listening to music, or just partaking of the extreme serenity of the harbor. There is always a most salubrious breeze. People watching is primo, and if you pick up some ridiculously cheap, right-off-the-boat fresh seafood from the Working Watermen's Association, the island's non-profit clearinghouse for the catches of the local fishermen (like a minute's walk from the hotel), and prepare it back in the suite, you will have one of the best views on the island from which to enjoy your dinner.
Over the years, I estimate we've spent about six weeks in the care of George and Betty and their very capable staff. In two weeks, we'll return for the first time since 2015. I have to say that moment I mentioned at the outset, when George takes us up to our suite and opens the door on that magnificent vista, has gotten me through a lot of the quotidian drag. Stay at Captain's Landing, and you'll sigh wistfully to think of it. read more