I visited Casa Saltshaker with a group of friends in December 2016, just after the election of the current U.S. President. I was excited to experience one of Buenos Aires' "closed door" restaurants and, on first impressions, Casa Saltshaker did not disappoint. Our group was warmly welcomed into the small but well-appointed apartment that the proprietor, Dan Perlman, apparently shares with his partner. Libations were served as we mingled with the other guests while waiting to go through for dinner. The group was not, understandably, particularly diverse in terms of race, as pretty much all of the guests, other than me, an African American male, were white. Nevertheless, it was a good mix of people from around the world. There was my group of four and another couple, along with Mr. Perlman, from the U.S.; several Brits; and an Australian woman. Everyone was quite friendly.
Dinner was, with the minor exception of a bland pasta dish with peas, very nice and quite filling. There was a diverse array of ingredients and dishes, which, I believe, were well executed and beautifully paired with the wines. And dessert was, for me, a revelation. I had never before had an olive oil cake, let alone one with brandied cherries and, I think, an infusion of some sort of citrus flavor. I enjoyed it so much I've since tried to recreate it at home dozens of times. Kudos also to Mr. Perlman for being an expert host, clearly adept at ensuring the conversation flowed throughout the meal and that every guest felt included.
Things did not take a turn for the worse until dinner was over and the discussion turned towards U.S. politics. Mr. Perlman chose that moment to reveal a bit of, surely unconscious, racial bias. He decided to single me out, the sole person of color, the sole black person, to blame U.S. African Americans, men in particular, for the election of the Republican candidate and to demand that I explain why black men don't vote. I was both crushed, as he had, up until that point, been a lovely host, and taken aback. I really can't recall my response. I think I represented well, but I would not have said anything to offend my friends or the other guests, all of whom were white. I do, however, recall my thoughts: the U.S. is a majority white country. The majority of white women voted for the current President (54%). The overwhelming majority of white men (64%) voted for the current President. If the current President is a problem, it's for the white majorities who elected him to sort out. Attempting to blame black men is ugly, transparent scapegoating.
I will be returning to Buenos Aires again, but I won't be revisiting Casa Saltshaker and can't really recommend it, for the reasons stated above. I do hope, however, that Mr. Perlman refrains from making future guests of color feel attacked. read more