Fort Totten Park is a converted military base, split between public use spaces, sections used by the US Army Reserve, Coast Guard, FDNY, and NYPD, and abandoned, undeveloped areas. A designated Historic District, it was the last active military base in Queens, dating back to the Civil War, although its batteries remain unfinished and it did not see active combat.
Exploring Fort Totten Park on a sunny, beautiful late summer Saturday, it is reminiscent of Governor's Island, but with an abandoned vibe. Roads wind past green areas and Colonial Revivalist houses, all marked by numbers, some used by the US Army, FDNY, and others. The military batteries are located on the western side of the peninsula. The must-visit V-shaped water battery is accessible via a long, concrete tunnel designed for vehicles, located by the park's visitor's center, which also has an old-fashioned series of displays summarizing some of the fort's history. One can wander the lower level of the water battery, which is striking. The upper level is incomplete and not accessible, aside from tours.
Just east of the military batteries is a designed park space with meadows, lawns, and wetland areas. It feels overgrown and a bit wild, despite some benches and a picnic area. Considering the park is on a peninsula, waterfront views of the Long Island Sound are surprisingly few and far between. The base doesn't seem designed to maximize water views and sections of the shore road were closed off. They are breathtaking when found, especially along the Shoreline Promenade north of the visitor's center.
Although the peninsula, as a whole, is dotted with historic buildings, many are in disrepair and unsafe to approach, including the oldest building of all, the Willets Farmhouse, which pre-dates the military base. In almost spectacular fashion, a trio of former barracks buildings facing the grand parade grounds have large sections of their roofs missing. An exception is the picturesque former officer's club, studded with turrets and castle-like, now housing the Bayside Historical Society. Clearly a beneficiary of restoration.
Aside from wandering the many roads past private or abandoned buildings, there are few amenities. Benches are seldom found. Shade sometimes feel scarcer still. However, there is a small children's playground, a pool and gazebo in the parade grounds. There are very good public restrooms by the visitor's center, and another set on the eastern side of the park.
Visiting Fort Totten is a fascinating, sometimes surreal experience. It is also likely to disappoint if not visiting with the right expectations. It is best to know some of its history (for a quick start: https://forgotten-ny.com/2018/12/fort-totten-bayside/), but also that it is largely an underdeveloped public space. Self-sufficient, curious urban trekkers with an interest in the history of the base will have much to see. Those looking for relaxation may find it wanting for amenities, accessibility, and better managed public spaces. Here's to hoping that Fort Totten gets some restoration love that highlights its interesting history without excessive commercialization. Best reached by car (parking lot by entrance) or via Q13 and Q16 buses, which terminate at its entrance. read more