It's magical and wonderful and if you're lucky enough to spend the night here, you'll lay away in your bed even years later and think about it. Too much hype? Prove me wrong.
I first encountered Indian Garden on a hike up the Bright Angel Trail, at least seven or eight years ago. That's the trail it's on, but I had come down the South Kaibab, stayed at the Bright Angel Campground (also magical and wonderful) and then taken the longer route up to the rim via Bright Angel. I remember popping up out of all those switchbacks from the Colorado, encountering the more gentle slope along the river, and being totally blown away by all the trees at Indian Garden. It's full on riparian corridor!
Indeed, this little stretch of the river where the picnic grounds, ranger station, pump station, and campground are located is its own little world. Day hikers often congregate on the trail side of the river -- they recommend you don't descend beyond this point as a day hike -- and as I walked by almost a decade ago, I just knew I needed to come back and stay in the campground.
Fast forward to January of 2017 when a wonderful set of circumstances, including a last chance backcountry permit, allowed me to fulfill that dream. This time, I descended the Bright Angel Trail and spent two nights in the canyon.
The campground is located about 4.5 miles down (some charts list it at 4.8) from the rim on the Bright Angel Trail. The first three are steep descents, the last mile-ish is more gradual. All told, you descend over 3500 feet, which still puts you around 4.5 miles (4.1, depending on the chart) from Phantom Ranch with another 1300 or so feet to descend. It's actually the perfect setup for backpacking. You haul your full pack only 4.5 down and 4.5 up. Take two nights. On that full day in between, make the hike down to Phantom and the Colorado River with only a daypack. On your half-day, march out to Plateau Point with daypack. You get to see it all, but only have 9 miles of trek under full weight, and the uphill portion will be when your pack is the lightest.
The campground itself is incredible, and I can only imagine how it looks when the trees are leaved out. I've only been in January, but it must be a shaded dream in the summer. There's one group site, and the rest are just first-come, first-served sites that probably accommodate up to 2 small backpacking tents. They also each have a rain/shade structure over a picnic table, and a small concrete pad where you should do your cooking. You'll get two small ammo cans to hold your food or garbage, which should be sealed when not in use. Save those critters! You'll also post your backcountry permit in the new permit box affixed to each structure. You must have a permit to sleep here.
Besides the permit, there are a few other rules you should be aware of: There are quiet hours, no cooking allowed on the tables, all food must be stored in the ammo cans, no fires allowed, and all other park rules apply. It's also worth mentioning that you shouldn't approach wildlife, and definitely not feed them. The deer in the Grand Canyon are too accustomed to humans, and there are problems. We had a herd come right through camp which was very special, but a good reminder that we need to respect them for their own good.
As for amenities, there are nice pit toilets (the fan noises are a little distracting), several water stations, and even a small hiker hut with art on display, and a lending library. Grab a book and read, then put it back when you're done.
As I sit here typing this, my mind has wandered back to Indian Garden. I almost ache for that feeling of being in that special place, on an adventure I'll remember for the rest of my life. I didn't so much enter that place, as that place has entered into me and my soul. To spend a few nights there only makes me appreciate how rare and special it really is. read more