They SAY you're not supposed to hike down to the river and then back up to the rim of the Grand Canyon -- a 17 mile hike with 4,000 feet of elevation gain -- in one day. But I hate listening to the Man, so I did it anyway. And I'm glad I did! It's perfectly do-able by anyone in moderately good shape, provided you use basic common sense:
1. Don't do it in overly hot weather.
2. Bring plenty of water and food
3. Start early enough so that you finish by sunset
4. Don't veer off-trail or do anything stupid
I've lived in the desert for over 10 years, so I'm used to the dry climate...but if you're not, drink A TON of water. It is more dehydrating than you think! Since I'm already a hardcore desert rat, and since I hiked this on 4/19/11 when the high temp was only 78 degrees or so, I only drank about one liter of water on the entire hike. Considering the nice weather, I almost certainly could have done the whole hike with no water at all, but as it was I only peed twice, and my pee was not clear...so I guess I was dehydrated after all.
Mid-April weather at the Canyon can be dicey -- I've been there during April when it was freezing and snowy, and also when it was hot as balls. I just happened to be extremely lucky that the day I chose was not only PERFECT, but also fell during National Parks Week, which meant I got in for free and saved the $25 entrance fee!
My sister and I spent the night in Williams (about one hour's drive away, the closest lodging we could find in the busy season). We left our car at the Visitor's Center and took a free shuttle bus to the trailhead for the South Kaibab trail, beginning our hike at 8:40am.
They recommend using this trail to descend, because it is very steep and shadeless, but offers stunningly dramatic views. Then you can follow the Colorado River at the bottom for about two more miles and then hike back up the much shadier, less steep, but slightly longer Bright Angel Trail to the top. Also, there is no drinking water along the S. Kaibab trail, so it makes sense to take that down while you still have the water you brought with you. Bright Angel has water at regular intervals which you can use to refill your bottles.
We started out wearing hoodies and shorts for the first hour or so, but after that it was bikini time! I hiked the rest of the way in a bikini, ballcap and Nike Cortez -- with plenty of sunblock, of course. This type of hiking attire was fine, although I unfortunately chose a Victoria's Secret "cheeky" bottom which gave everyone behind me a questionable view of the other Grand Canyon.
The S. Kaibab is definitely steep and sunny, but very safe as long as you stay on the trail and don't go climbing around or shortcutting. We passed a couple of mule trains (no big deal, just step aside and let them pass), and had to sidestep a goodly amount of mule shit, but it was a beautiful, dramatic trail. My one bit of advice is to make sure your toenails are trimmed short before all this downhill hiking...your toes tend to jam up against the front of your shoes, and it can be mildly annoying.
We reached the bottom after 2 hours and 40 minutes (we hiked fairly fast, with a little jogging thrown in, and no breaks, figuring to save time for the more difficult, uphill part of the hike). At the bottom, we crossed a bridge to the far side of the Canyon and hiked along to this little boat beach, with beautiful white sand, where we rested for about a half hour. My dad had just committed suicide, so I had made this little memorial box in his honor and I found a nice spot to leave it down there, and we had a little ceremony.
Then we hiked about a mile along the bottom to the Phantom Ranch, where we stopped in the awesomely cool canteen for a lemonade, and to write some postcards, which they send up by mule train and mail out "From the Bottom of the Grand Canyon."
The Ranch looks really cool, but in order to stay overnight there you have to book around 2 years in advance. Even just to get a camping permit down there is like a 6-month wait, which is part of why I wanted to go down & back in one day. Screw that planning jive -- I prefer to be more spontaneous!
After resting, we started hiking up the Bright Angel trail at 1:20pm (read my review of that trail for more info on the second half of the hike). It took about 5.5 hours to ascend out of the Canyon to the Rim -- we finished just before sunset, at 6:45pm. We took the free shuttle bus back to our car at the Visitors' Center and drove back to our hotel in Williams.
Verdict: a beautiful trail with breath-taking views of the Canyon and Colorado River. Recommended for downhill hiking only, as it is steep and shadeless! Depending on your level of fitness, allow 3-4 hours to finish this 6-mile trail. read more