Full review in the blog - highlights below:
Shortly following the bread would be an item I attempted to order but was told "it's on the house" - the house terrine du jour and a large pot of cornichons and pickled onions. With the restaurant increasingly loud I must admit I did not catch all of the ingredients in that day's terrine but my notes indicate at least boar, pork, veal, and rabbit. Gamey but restrained and quite ample in portion the terrine was hefty with notes of garlic, pepper, onion, and paprika - and much to my surprise my sister loved it. Always a fan of my mother's meatloaf it was to this that she compared the terrine - a high compliment indeed.
First, for myself, a daily special of white and green asparagus with button mushrooms, poached egg, and bacon resting in pork jus. Never one to pass up an egg dish and additionally now four for four in meals containing asparagus this rather traditional dish was quite good despite a slightly overcooked egg. Salty and savory yet vegetal and earthy this was perhaps the least "fussed with" dish of our trip to that point and a nice change of pace, even for someone who prefers "fussy" food.
For Erika's first course, arriving steaming hot the dish described as Mussels, scallops, chopped tripe, blood sausage, garlic, chives, and fine herbs was fantastic - a mélange of flavors and textures that you could smell coming a mile away yet each distinct and nicely prepared with the chewy tripe, textural sausage, and the briny mushrooms most distinct amongst the nearly stew-like preparation.
it would be perhaps 10:20 when our main courses arrived - the first Erika's Scallops with Lobster butter and bread crumbs, vegetable cocktail with bacon, and Pommes puree. Thankfully small in portion as she was already beginning to get full these four medium sized scallops were served in the shell and topped with savory butter and crisp breadcrumbs while the center of the plate contained a mélange of vegetables and a stick of bacon strangely reminiscent of a bloody Mary without the alcohol. With the main plate quite tasty I knew the moment I saw it arrive that my sister's Pièce de résistance would be the potatoes - one of her favorite foods and a stunning example likely equal parts butter and tuber.
Moving forward to my main course it seemed as though French isn't quite as good as I'd thought - I thought I'd ordered lamb chops when in fact what I'd truly ordered was a large crock containing a whole milk fed lamb shoulder with white beans, carrots, sundried tomatoes, peppers, stuffing, and fine herbs. With the first chop plated tableside on a bed of toasted bread and house cured ham our server departed with raised eyebrows, a smile, and a "bon appetite." Pink, rich, and slightly more gamey than most American lambs I've tasted it was with my first bite that I was glad they'd been sold out of the sweetbreads - while I'm sure they were good it is hard for me to imagine that they would have been this hearty, rustic, and satisfying. With each bite as good as the last and the vegetables and legumes providing ample contrast to the rich meat this was precisely the sort of dish I'd hoped for at L'Ami Jean - the sort of dish I'm sure many French folks including Chef Jégo grew up and the sort of dish I wish more places did well stateside.
With the hour nearing 11:00 at this point and people continuing to file in to fill the empty spaces our desserts would arrive next - the first a personal favorite and the second a dish recommended by pretty much everyone who'd ever visited L'Ami Jean prior. Beginning first with the Vanilla Brioche Bread Pudding with whipped cream, pistachio, and strawberry the dish arrived with instructions - namely "don't touch the bowl, it is very hot." Featuring four large cubes of golden bread lightly toasted on the corners and soaked through with rich caramel the hefty squares actually bordered on being overly sweet on their own, yet when matched with the mild and airy whipped cream, crumbled pistachio, and potage of vanilla the flavor mellowed out substantially forming an almost butterscotch flavor. Tasty, rustic, and indeed hot I will note I'm glad we ordered it as bread pudding is my favorite type of dessert, but it couldn't hold a candle to what followed.
For our final taste of Chez L'Ami Jean the order would be Chef Jégo's famous Rice Pudding in the fashion of his grandmother. Served with with confiture du lait atop the short grain rice plus more as a sidecar, granola with pralines and dried fruit, and multiple flavored meringues I can confirm that the rumors are true - the portion is enormous. Delivered on a serving board with two large plates placed before us our server offered another smile and a "enjoy" - and enjoy we did, plate after plate until there was nothing left but an empty bowl and a spoon licked clean.
They would see me as a regular if I lived locally. read more