I love Naples, though I know many people do not (including other Italians). In many ways this isn't a bad thing since it keeps away the tourists - who have conspired to utterly ruin cities like Florence. But it is definitely a city worth spending time in. And even northern Italians, who turn their nose up at the mere mention of Naples, will admit that one eats well there. The difficulty for tourists in Naples is knowing where to go and managing the language barrier. In the south, English is not nearly as widely spoken as in other parts of the country. And even for someone like myself, who can speak Italian, wading through the local dialect can prove almost impossible. Fortunately at Barrique they all speak "in lingua."
This out-of-the way restaurant sits on an humble and nearly hidden piazza in Chiaia. It is long on atmosphere, good wine, and excellent new Italian cooking. For anyone spending time in Naples, this is a great, but pricier, break from pasta con vongole, boccone di mozzarella and pizza. It is highly unlikely you'll meet any tourists here, though it is popular with a few of the expat community who know about it. Go with people you care about; people who love long dinners, good food and provide stimulating conversation.
The softly lit interior has a cellar-like quality, as if not long ago it was used to store wine. The ceiling is arched and the furniture is all dark wood.
The owner, Antonio, is an extremely attentive host who will talk to you about the many excellent wines he has available. If he's the one taking orders, he'll often sit at your table while you think about what to order. Hopefully you speak Italian, because Antonio doesn't speak very much English, nor did his staff.
I always went here for the steak, which you order by the gram. If you are very hungry, I recommend around 350 grams. If there are two or more of you, you can get a much bigger piece and divide it bistecca Fiorentina style. If you order the beef for anything more than medium rare, you'll probably insult the kitchen.
The pork is also great (and the cheaper meat option) - a large chop with a huge rind of fat on it - don't eat the fat!
As with most Italian restaurants, you'll want to order in courses. The meat arrives without any vegetables, so be sure to get a primo. The primi vary - I have had wonderful fennel salads with shaved parmasean cheese on top, excellent homemade pasta dishes, and so on. The only place where La Barrique errs is that the pasta is sometimes too salty.
The desserts also change from month to month. My favorite recurring dessert was a small chocolate cake with molten chocolate filling infused with oregano. Simply divine.
They do take credit cards, which is a good thing since a meal here can get pricey, especially with wine. But the cost is not unreasonable. I've spent more for less.
You definitely need to make reservations. Dinner starts around 8pm, though patrons often don't show up until 9pm. read more