TL;DR A Tale of Two Cities
More like a multiple personality schizo neighborhood. If you have no idea what gentrification is come to Lower East Side. I don't mean just bar hopping on Orchard Street or dining on Clinton Street. I mean explore all the way to the East River.
The quickest way to experience the tale of two cities is to start on Kenmare St. and keep walking east until it turns into Delancey Street and keep going till you hit the river. Do that during the day time and night time. What you will see is the fancy turn ghetto during the day time, and the quaint lights of SOHO turn quietly unsafe.
Let me take you through it step by step.
1. You will see the border of SOHO with some boutique shops, restaurants, Eileen's Cheesecake, a gallery with weird architectural facade. The people will be a mixture of tourists, NYC imports (the ones who moved into NYC), and a sprinkle of born and raised. Your feeling safe level is very high even at night time.
2. The street mysteriously empties. You now see warehouse looking fronts with Chinese characters. There is literally noone around. Your feeling safe level is still high since there's noone around you. If you are afraid of the dark your safe level bottoms out at night cause you feel like you just walked into a blackhole in NYC where there isn't a living thing around other than the scurry of rats and the spaced out chill in the back of your neck everytime a ghost breaths on you.
3. You are now officially on Delancey street. You will see a wide crossing where to your right is Chinatown and to your left is SOHO/LES. During the day time the people will be mainly tourists coming from Chinatown or SOHO looking for Chinatown or SOHO. You will also see Chinese people (mainly older ones) because they are heading home. You will also see an occasional haggard looking person who looks like life took everything from him and only gave him a shelter, and that's because the Bowery Mission is nearyby. At night you will see the partyers and diners Your feeling safe level is mid to high both during the day and night. It's not high because, well, you may get run over by a car and cause there is that occasional crazy party person who may just be crazy.
4. You've now reached Forsyth Park and the only person you see around is someone sleeping on the bench. Your feeling safe level is the same as number 2.
5. The next two blocks are border blocks. It transitions your mind. The place will be semi-desolate. It will have a sprinkle of people who range from the homeless, NYC imports heading to more happening areas, and neighborhood people. There are some restaurants, delis, and a big kitchen supply store. The feeling safe level is mid to high.
6. Starbucks welcomes you! Get ready for this because when people talk about LES nowadays this is the start of the area they talk about. During the daytime, small business commerce mixes with big corporate giants. You have affordable clothing stores barely surviving and on the verge of closing down next to more mainstream affordable-ish clothing stores. Then there are cell phone companies opening shops left and right on the street. You will also see fast food joints that feed the poor and drunk middle class. The feeling safe level here varies from seriously low to high depending on what demographic you fall into.
a) Orchard Street: During the day is mainly small restaurants, cafes, and shops, by night it is young people's party central. This is where you'll find the NYC imports. independent coffee shops galore and bars for the masses on weekends. You will not find too many born and raised, and even if you do, they are in a ratio of 1:100 with the imports.
b) Essex Street: The street that has restaurants and food shops to feed the daytime crowd and the drunktime crowd.
c) Clinton Street: This is where the foodies are. I'm sure since you're reading this on Yelp, you've been here before. Probably your early days was to eat at Clinton Street Bakery, but while getting there from the F train, you were bombarded with restaurants left and right. WD-50 used to exist on this street, Ivan Ramen just opened up, a bunch of brunch places and coffee shops. You get the point.
d) The Delancey: I'm not singling this place out because of how amazing it is, I'm singling it out because it serves as a border. This will be the last vestige of partying when you walk past this point. Also the race ratio will dramatically turn mainly hispanic and black at night after this point.
7. The school playground welcomes you to the hood. from here on to the east river you will experience modern day ghetto fab. Condo's and projects mix after Pitt Street. The people here are the ones who grew up in the neighborhood and have seen the changes. And like the way life works, I do not have enough characters to continue and the description of the disenfranchised here will be short-changed. read more