I have to humbly admit that I only discovered this place two weeks ago, thanks to the Yelp app. Just five minutes from my house, this Testaccio institution has been open since 1954 (yes, oops, you think I might have noticed it at least in the last decade?).
What is it? Actually a "fraschetta", a typical wine lodge which serves little more than snacks and wine on tap. You know the kind of plonk or "vino sfuso" I'm talking about: rigorously from the Castelli Romani, nail-varnish remover white wine and a red that has been round the block a few times.
What is there to eat? Sandwiches and plates of cheese and cold cuts, that's about it. For €3,50 you can get a classic white roll stuffed with cheese and meat, or for €5 you get a plastic plate with slices of ham, salami and an assortment of cheeses (plus bread).
There are also prepared vegetables behind the glass counter, that usually end up in sandwiches: boiled spinach, slices of tomato, lettuce and vegetables in season.
The food is simple and the prices are excellent, but what you really come for is the atmosphere, what the Irish would call the "craic". This timeless spot is filled with local workmen, the odd eccentric, and plenty of Testaccio faces sharing a bit of banter and gossip over a glass of wine.
It fills up with students from the local design college at lunch, who come for the prices and the convenient location. I say: come for the cheap wine, the straightforward fare, but above all, come for the friendly faces. Owner Sandro (third generation) is the perfect host, and you just might make friends for life with a few of the regular punters. read more