KenScale: 8.5/10
Visit: February 2024…read more[Note: After some deliberations, I have decided to upgrade all restaurants receiving 8.5 or 8.75 KenScale to five Yelp stars from four.]
Perhaps no restaurant in the gastronomical heaven of Copenhagen has as much buzz as Alchemist at the moment. The chef-owner Rasmus Munk believes in the idea of holistic cuisine that redefines dining through multi-sensory experience and fusing diverse elements from philosophy, sustainability, technology and arts, and ever since its opening Alchemist has received almost unparalleled level of praise and attention for its innovative approach to fine dining. For our Copenhagen trip, I very much wanted to check out what Alchemist had to offer and was lucky to secure a reservation for my wife Jun and me. After opening a giant metal door (which almost reminded me of entering some fantasy world of dragons and fairies) of an industrial building, we were led to a dark room with dazzling lights where a female dancer started performing in front of us before handing us a thinly sliced black seaweed-based snack. Our dining experience got even more surreal thereafter.
Everything at Alchemist challenges your notion of a restaurant dining experience. Following the immersive experience, we were led to a lounge overlooking a brightly lit room where the kitchen staff was experimenting with different ingredients as if they were scientists researching the next-generation biology. The term for each of the small bites and dishes to come was "impression." It was in the lounge where ACT II (the dark room before was ACT I) began and we started getting more snacks while ordering cocktails and a bottle of wine to drink later. Some of these snacks were quite outstanding with ingenious touch, like the daisy cocktail with yuzu and mandarin, a sphere of gluten with langoustine tartare and caviar on top that generated smoke when we bit in the puff (hence the name "Smokey Ball"), an egg yolk emulsion (cleverly named "omelette") with Comte, pancetta and truffle, and an expression of Spain's bikini sandwich with jamon Iberico and gruyere cheese inside. After all the snacks were we then led to the main dining room that looks more like a planetarium than a restaurant. Throughout ACT III (which is further divided into four Scenes), the ceiling rotated through different video images, ranging from natural settings like ocean under the water to more provocative (and containing heavy political and environmental messages) such as blood cells, caged chickens and "surveillance" symbolized by stacks of computer screens. While we appreciated chef Munk's culinary vision to showcase that eating at a restaurant is not just about enjoying delicious food, at times these images distracted us from examining and savoring a series of dishes that started to arrive at our counter table. It probably didn't help that some of the dishes even had more graphic appearances that some diners might consider too disturbing, like a bowl resembling the surface of an eye (not surprisingly called "1984") with lobster and caviar to be dipped in the middle, a scoop of "Tongue Kiss" (fortunately, it was not a real tongue but a plastic model) where we were told to lick the habanero pepper and anchovy on the tongue's edge, or a mousse of lamb brain and truffle in the middle of a model of dissected brain (named "Food for Thought"). Some of my favorites included Marine Invaders (absolutely fantastic mix of crab and sea urchin, both of which are apparently invasive species in the ocean's ecosystem), Lobster Claw (a deconstructed representation of lobster roll with horseradish cream sauce and tomato powder), King Crab (utilizing crab tail that would've otherwise become food waste into almost like a fish cake with shrimp and langoustine layers), and Hunger (rabbit filet that tasted like a fine cured ham, and with harissa sauce that surprisingly worked well). The final savory course came in the form of chicken thigh glazed with Chinese sauce on a plastic model of chicken foot, followed by actual deboned chicken foot and sweet and sour broth of tom yum soup. Both of these dishes left a more lasting visual impression than how they actually tasted. The desserts also came in the form of small bites inspired by a variety of themes.
Booking a table at Alchemist requires as much effort as some of the other finest dining destinations in Copenhagen. Make sure to sign up for a mailing list from the restaurant that will periodically announce when the next reservation window will open. The gigantic wine list at Alchemist was indeed a tour de force, with a fancy gadget that you can use to browse the bottles by categories such as country, region and grape type. At the end of the meal, chef Rasmus came out to greet and thank us for the visit. For a star chef who is probably one of the hottest names in the gastronomy world right now, we found him surprisingly approachable and humble.