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Nitro Poached Apertif : Gin & Tonic
All great meals in England begin with an aperitif, and this was no exception. The only difference with this particular service was that it was served as a single bite using liquid nitrogen. The server arrived with a full bar set up and three drinks available- a Gin & Tonic, a Vodka and Lime Sour and a Tequila and Grapefruit. The candle stick was used to light the corresponding citrus rind on fire to encourage some of its aromas to come into the bite, and then the liquid was flash frozen. It exploded with boozy intensity. Splendid.
Beatroot Meringue and Horseradish Cream
In a word- Passover. Anyone who has enjoyed a maror sandwich (with beet juice stained prepared horseradish) knows this flavour well.
Red Cabbage Gazpacho: Pommery Grain Mustard Ice Cream
Another European inspired bite. The gazpacho was sweet and sulfurous, complemented nicely by a fabulous kick of heat from the mustard ice cream.
Savoury Lollies: Waldorf Salad (Frozen Apple, Celery and Grape, Walnut), Salmon Twister (Smoked Salmon with Avocado and Horseradish), Foie Gras Feast (with Almond and Cocoa Nibs)
An off-the-menu addition, this was one of my favouriteplates. We were told that these lollies are an absolute nightmare to prepare on a large scale because each has incredible detail. The favourite of the three by far was the foie gras, which was like most rich, luxurious Magnum bar ever (minus the frozen part).
Jelly of Quail, Crayfish Cream : Chicken Liver Parfait, Oak Moss, Truffle Toast (Homage to Alain Chapel)
1) 2010 Sancerre, Les Culs de Beaujeau, Francois Cotat, Loire Valley France
2) 2011 Sevillen 900, Fume Blanc, Guney, Denizli Turkey
This dish began with a little leaf of mildly mossy flavoured paper from a plastic packet that we placed on our tongue to begin the sensory experience. Next, a server poured dry ice over the bed of moss which roused up a very delicate aroma that spilled onto our plates. The first pot contained a dreamy mildly fishy crayfish cream, below which there was a fowl scented jelly and a luscious ball of liver. We alternated bites of this rich dish with a bite of the umami-rich crispy toast. Rich and oh so lovely.
Snail Porridge : Iberico Bellota Ham, Shaved Fennel
1) 2008 Heritage, Jean Lotus Chave Selections, Rhone Valley France
2) 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Clos La Roquete, Rhone Valley France
Parsley stained porridge with fabulously salty ham and sweet fennel on top. I was very impressed with the texture of the snails, which were not at all chewy or unpleasant. I think this would have been better as a smaller bite (perhaps just a spoonful sized course) but ultimately I can't complain about having too much escargot.
Scallop : Birch Syrup, Bergamot, Coral Royal
An off the menu dish that they had only a few of to try. The "scallop" in the back was actually a Daikon cut and dressed like a scallop and filled with the scallop roe inside. I loved the crunchy fresh flavour of the daikon against the creamy richness of the Coral Royal, while the real scallop was perfectly cooked and seasoned.
Roast Foie Gras : Gooseberry, Confit Kombu and Crab Biscuit
1) 2008 Alba Antiqua, Matosevic, Istria Croatia
2) 2012 Pinot Gris, Signature, Rene Mure, Alsace France
Probably the largest bit of foie gras that I have ever eaten at one time but I certainly wouldn't complain. The gooseberry brought a much needed element of acidity, while the kombu and crab offered a nice hit of savoury umami to balance it out.
Mat Hatter's Tea Party C.1850 - Mock Turtle Soup, Pocket Watch, Toast Sandwich
What is Mock Turkey soup you ask? Well, any uber-Alice fan like me knows that Mock Turtle soup gained popularity in the 19th C because turtle meat was very pricy so instead they would use calves head and feet- this would explain why in Alice in Wonderland, the Mock Turkey is portrayed as a turtle body with a calves head and hooves. So the way this dish worked was that two servers popped by with some glass two-layered tea pots (with quail egg, calves head and other bits in the bottom and hot water in the top) and a "watch box" with gold lined pocket watches. They call me by my other name, Alice, and let my partner (the dormouse, obviously) listen to the ticking watches (the box actually ticketed!) The gold watch was then dropped into the hot water in the teapot and it began to dissolve into gold flake and bouillon. Once dissolved, we were told to pour it over the soup components and drink it up. On the side were classic Victorian tea sandwiches- the filling of which included buttered burnt toast, bone marrow, cucumber, and homemade condiments. The history of this was that less British affluent families used to burn an extra piece of bread to add flavour and textural contrast and use that in place of a pricey piece of meat. To me, however, the dish reminded me of my grandmother who used to deliberately make us almost-burnt bread with copious amounts of melted butter. I absolutely loved t read more