When Di Bruno Bros. Cheese Shop made its 1939 debut in a humble 600-square-foot space in…read morePhiladelphia's Italian Market, its owners could hardly have foreseen that their descendants would not only be presiding over a fleet of gourmet enterprises in the greater Philadelphia area, but would also become leaders in the world of specialty foods via their online sales.
Recently, I paid a call at their newest outpost on Philly's Main Line. Located in the Strafford Shopping Center just a few steps from the Amish Farmers' Market, the Wayne store opened its doors in 2021.
As a restaurant reviewer and food & wine writer, my chief focus, of course, was upon the charming little Alimentari Bar/Café. Here, smack dab in the middle of all that foodie hustle and bustle, you can experience a moment of respite and order a creative cocktail to accompany your luncheon or as an afternoon pick-me-up. A Negroni or Boulvardier (Bluecoat Gin/Redemption Bourbon, respectively, Campari, Iris Dorado Vermouth) or, perhaps, a Vesper (Bluecoat Gin, Stateside Vodka, Lillet Blanc), also known as the Vesper Martini. Erroneously thought to have been invented by author Ian Fleming for his iconic British secret agent, James Bond, the cocktail first appeared in Fleming's Casino Royale, which was published in 1953, and named for the fictional double agent and Bond love-interest Vesper Lynd.
The restaurant also offers a nice selection of wines by the glass/bottle, as well as several interesting brews.
The Italian comfort food headlines "Di Bruno Bros. products at every turn," with categories such as Formaggi & Salumi, Soup & Salads, Sandwiches, Pizza Alla Romana, Plates, Alimentari Focaccia, and Dolci.
Cheese is obviously big here, so the Monger's Greatest Hits - featuring Fromage d'Affinois, Alex, Pantaleo, black lava cashews, fig & acacia jam, honeycomb, house-made focaccia, seasonal fruit, and crostini - would definitely be a way to go. My dining partner chose a slightly different route with her House of Grilled Cheese sandwich (pictured), which featured Reading Raclette, Taleggio, butter brioche and also a bowl of incredibly delicious San Marzano tomato soup. Another sandwich you might consider - highly recommended by a friend - is the Balsamic Chicken. Sequestered between two slices of toasted ciabatta, the moist marinated breast is aided and abetted by Caciocavallo cheese, roasted red peppers, arugula, basil, slathered with roasted garlic aioli, and accompanied by house-made potato chips.
The Soup & Salad category included the aforementioned tomato soup and items such as Summer Panzanella, Di Bruno Bros. Caesar, and an interesting combo of Burrata & Brussels Sprouts set on a pillow of toasted rustic bread flooded with a Medjool date sauce. Interesting... and the sprouts were done to a turn, but the sauce was very, very (almost offputtingly) sweet.
The Plates definitely hold some solid possibilities: House-Made Meatballs, for instance, or Roasted Branzino. But the two pasta dishes are particularly noteworthy... The Cacio E Pepe is basically spaghetti simply seasoned with cheese & pepper. In this case, the cheeses are pecorino Romano and parmigiano Reggiano. But the pepper is quite special. Tellicherry peppercorns are considered a highly prized variety of black pepper due to their complex flavors, which include woodsy and citrus notes. And for those who prefer their pasta with a tad more zip, the Spicy Sausage Rigatoni (pictured) - fennel sausage swimming in a savory tomato ragù, sprinkled with parmigiano Reggiano, and topped with rich & creamy Stracciarella cheese - is equally satisfying.
Dolci, "sweets," are somewhat limited, but still worth considering... The Seasonal Gelato & Sorbetto are locally sourced from the Fiore Restaurant. For purists, the Affogato may be just the ticket. Traditionally known as Affogato al Caffè, this coffee-based dessert usually takes the form of a scoop of plain milk-flavored or vanilla gelato or ice cream "drowned" with a shot of hot espresso. The third option is the Chocolate Budino, an Italian pudding made from a milk & egg custard thickened with cornstarch. While similar to American puddings and custards, Budino has a richer, eggier texture, somewhat akin to Mexican flan... On the other hand, their pastry department (pictured) is just a few steps away. If nothing quite appeals, you can always make a quick stop and savor your dessert at home.
By the way, Di Bruno Bros. also serves Saturday and Sunday brunch from 10:00 a.m. - 2:00 p.m.
