Saoji is a fiery, deeply spiced, mostly non-vegetarian cuisine said to have originated with the…read moreHalba Koshti weaver community of Madhya Pradesh. When the community migrated to Nagpur in 1877, their food followed -- spreading through the tradesfolk and mill workers who embraced its bold flavors. Today, Saoji is considered the signature cuisine of Nagpur: intensely spiced, unapologetically hot, and built around powerful, roasted masalas.
Tonight we ate at Nagpuri Saoji in Voorhees (they also have a location in Iselin), and these two spots are reportedly the only places in the U.S. where you can experience this cuisine in its full, blazing glory.
To Start
We began with sabudana vada -- the classic Maharashtrian fritter made from tapioca pearls, mashed potatoes, peanuts, and spices. Served piping hot and impossibly crisp outside with a tender interior, they came with two chutneys and were absolutely sublime.
Alongside that was goat sukka, a dry-style mutton preparation associated with the Mangalore and Udupi regions, with spice influences tracing back to Goa and even Arab and Turkish traders. Coriander, fennel, cumin, black peppercorns, and fenugreek give it depth and warmth. It was bold, savory, and incredibly flavorful.
The Curries
I ordered chicken kala masala curry, and it was deeply earthy, nutty, and robustly savory. "Kala" means "black" in Marathi -- referring both to the color and to the roasted spice blend itself. Cumin, coriander, cloves, cinnamon, stone flower, coconut, sesame seeds, and chillies are roasted and ground into a dark, complex masala that lingers beautifully on the palate.
We also ordered Goat Handi, with tender meat in a velvety, aromatic gravy, and a Malwani goat curry, made with Malvani masala from the Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra -- a spice blend that balances heat with coastal warmth and depth.
Rice, plain naan, and indulgent Amul cheese naan rounded out the meal.
Dessert
We finished with Sitafal Rasmalai (custard apple-infused rasmalai) and Jamun Rabdi -- both creamy, fragrant, and perfect against the lingering spice.
A Few Notes
Like much traditional Asian cooking, the meat dishes are cooked on the bone -- so eat mindfully. And if you request "hot," they mean hot. This is not toned-down spice; this is the real deal.
I was thrilled to try dishes from India that I've never made before. Saoji cuisine is bold, unapologetic, and absolutely delicious -- and I'll definitely be adding some of these flavors to my home repertoire.
If you have the opportunity to try this cuisine -- do it.