I recommend visiting Duke Homestead before visiting Duke Chapel. It's only about a ten minute drive away, and $2 for the tour. You can see the beginnings of the tobacco and pipe fortune that Washington Duke started, and which his son, James Buchanan "Buck" Duke catapulted enough by selling cigarettes to enable him to donate the equivalent of $30-40 million dollars in today's currency to build the massive Duke Chapel and University. It's quite astonishing to see the difference 60-70 years can make in one's fortune, and the monument that resulted which looks hundreds of years old, bus is only about a century old as it was built between the 1920s and early 1930s.
Actually, Duke Homestead was middle class to upper middle class for its time. The tour guide told us Washington Duke came from a middle class family, and had two wives, the second of his was wealthy named Artelia from the Roney family (you'll see a fountain called the "Roney" fountain from the sister or Washington Duke's late wife Artelia--in Duke gardens, and was originally put on Duke campus, but was moved). The main house of Duke Homestead was dedicated to Washington Duke's second wife Artelia, and is more upper middle class for the 1850s-60s, and became even more so as Washington Duke started to have success venturing from tobacco farming to pipe tobacco after the civil war. You can see that in the pricy, massive cast iron stove which was twenty years ahead of its time and which has the word "success" emblazoned on its front.
But anyway, you can see what was considered upper middle class for the 1850-60, and what was astoundingly wealthy in one generation. See where the son, Buck Duke lived, and where his family's wealth ended up.
It should be said that Buck Duke's mother Artelia was a Methodist, and Duke Chapel is a Methodist church. The tour guide said that Methodist Christianity became very popular perhaps around the time Artelia married his father. I am not sure what religion Buck Duke followed, but his mother died when he was two years old, caring for Buck's eldest brother shortly before the beginning of the Civil War.
Duke Chapel adjoins the Duke Gardens, so it is possible to go through a latch key iron gate to pass from one to the next. The gardens is called the Sarah P. Duke gardens, who is the wife of Buck Duke's brother Benjamin, who was largely into charity.
About the chapel itself, there is a tour on some days, which I believe is free and open to the public.
I did not attend the tour, but I did go to the Evensong choir concert on Palm Sunday. That was also free, but had a sectioned off area for some of the pews. Not sure of the reason. I think perhaps it was the regular Catholic congregation, but I might be mistaken.
The concert was about an hour long and had three songs, which tells you how lengthy the numbers were. There was an informational pamphlet distributed which had lyrics and translations for the songs, information about who made the songs and their general song structure. Very collegiate writing, with the feel of technical musical appreciation. There was information about why the hymns were selected, which I discovered I needed as it turns out the hymns were selected exactly because they were "overlooked." They were each fairly modern, from the 1960s-2000s even if one was based on a 1600s poem. I am not that familiar with Catholic hymns, but the description said the songs were modern, and they sounded modern as there was somewhat discordant organ playing and a dark abstraction to the pieces. But with points of ethereal as well as massive choral beauty. Perhaps not popular hymns for a reason, but fitting for the college campus, I suppose. The conductor had silver hair and at times was vigorous and made the better moments of the hymns more passionate.
I had information from one of the attendants on another day that there is both Protestant and Catholic service at Duke Cathedral, and for the most part unless noted anyone can attend. It's just that for the Catholic service specifically (and perhaps not the Protestant) it would be better not to take the Communion, which is the symbolic bread and wine for the body and blood of Jesus Christ. I am not sure if there's a difference in this if you are Christian vs non Christian. Maybe?
There was also some art prints when I visited Duke Chapel, on the walls. read more