"Even as we were taking out at Diamond Creek at the end of my first trip two years ago, I knew I needed to return to the River and the Canyon with GCW. What I experienced the first trip was a huge sense of wonder at the magnificence and magic of the place. What I found during the 13 day trip in July of this year was a recognition of an inner strength, and an ability to flow in a world that is not always easy or friendly.
There were many extraordinary challenges on this trip that could have ruined a vacation: thunderstorms and bucketing rain as we were setting up camp, private groups camping on larger sites which made it harder for us to find a site, winds blowing so hard the guides could barely keep the rafts moving forward. Weird things happened: the Can-X boats getting away and making an independent run down the River like so many rubber ducks in a row; the raft stuck at the bottom of Crystal; someone (not in our group) getting hurt enough that a helicopter had to come for them. And there were the usual discomforts and challenges: ants, sand everywhere (still finding that in odd places now that I'm home), the heat, sitting in wet clothes for hours on end, sore feet, the lack of privacy. But those all seemed an appropriate price to pay for the gifts of the trip. Gifts not to be found anywhere above rim for any price at all.
The friendships. I traveled alone this trip, eager to test my mettle as a solo woman of a certain age. On the shuttle from the airport in Phoenix to Flagstaff I met the only other solo woman on the trip. From our first conversation we were bonded, and we spent the entire trip together. We shared a campsite, looked out for each other during blue bucket moments, and traveled together each day. Many people thought we came together as a mother, daughter team. The morning the group was to depart from Flagstaff for Lee's Ferry, a woman recognized me from the picture on the shared site. She and her husband were among the eight of us who did the entire 13 days together. In the course of that time I had the honor of watching her face fear after fear after fear and grow hugely because of it. The eight of us who traveled the full length of the River together will be in each other's lives in some way forever.
The stars. After the thunderstorms passed, we had several nights in a row of clear skies. Jupiter glowed in the western sky, lighting the way for the billions of stars to follow. Going to sleep under bright stars and flitting bats was one of the most peaceful and satisfying things I've ever done. Eyes opening in the middle of the night to see the Milky Way splashed from one end of the sky to the other, not just one night but a week's worth of nights, was a gift almost beyond comprehension. Waking up in the pre-dawn light, watching the last stars fade away just as a canyon wren started her morning cascade of song, made me feel closer to the people who originally lived in the Canyon. It all made me feel closer to the life force that flows through us all.
The guides. Starting with Jeff as leader, and including the 6 guides and Tyler in the supply boat, I cannot say enough about these amazing human beings and the job they do. Working in terrifically challenging circumstances over which he had no control, Jeff kept our well-being and happiness a priority the whole trip. While he juggled plans and problem-solving, he also worked as an equal with the other guides. He told great stories, terrible groaner jokes, and made us laugh when we might otherwise have not seen the humor in a given situation. The demands on all the guides are nearly impossible: row all day, navigate wild rapids in a way that is both safe and fun for pretty clueless people, cook incredible meals. Be available to help, comfort, and answer questions at all times. And yet they showed nothing but smiles and joy, and when we would comment on how hard something seemed, they shrugged it off as part of the job and a price they considered small for the privilege of the life they've chosen.
Everything else: peregrine fledglings learning to fly; condors, ravens, and great blue herons; lizards with doleful gazes watching camp set-up; a herd of sheep across the river as we celebrated a successful run at Lava; hikes to picturesque waterfalls, up side canyons, over rocks millions of years old; a long smooth float on green water surrounded by canyon walls radiating every possible shade of red under a sky blue beyond any metaphor I know, when a thought floats through, "This is happy." Thank you to the guides - I want to come back in my next life as you. Thank you to GCW for the planning, the systems, the information - all intended to allow the best possible experience of a world in which humans do not fit easily. I'm already planning, wondering - can I make trip three happen?" read more