Yiannis Taverna has been a longtime fixture in Old Strathcona for as long as I can remember. They…read moreopened back in 1990, proving that their traditional Greek cuisine - 35 years strong - is a reliable mainstay, withstanding decades on the vibrant and ever-evolving Whyte Ave.
It's been a hot minute since my last visit and I figured that it was due time. They were named Best Mediterranean Restaurant 2021 in the Edmonton Journal and this was enough to stoke my interest. A reservation is best, especially on a warm summer evening when their large garage-front doors are open to the outside air. Parking can be tricky on Whyte but with some luck you might grab a spot out front.
I visited on a Saturday evening and despite my reservation, I was still unable to snag a coveted patio table beneath their signature blue and white awning. There was an empty table near the patio that they also wouldn't let me occupy because it was "already reserved." (Didn't I have a reservation?) I settled on a spot further inside the dining room, lovely nonetheless. The dining area is quite large, occupying two levels. Full of original exposed brick and beautiful painted murals, the space is designed to embody the feeling of sitting in a Greek taverna. The most striking element of decor is certainly the wall of glowing kako mati, or evil eyes, used to protect against negative energy. I had heard that traditional dancers entertain on Saturday evenings but no such dancers appeared. Maybe I was dining too early in the night?
To start my visit, I was looking for a summery cocktail that would match the Greek feast that I was prepared to enjoy. Between the Ouzo Lemonade and the Aegean Fizz (Greek brandy, Cointreau, lemon, soda - $14.00), I chose the latter. This drink succeeded at being a fun effervescent summertime cocktail, however it was very boozy. I had a difficult time finishing it because the alcohol was quite strong.
The menu is ideally crafted for sharing and in Greek tradition you can imagine large families feasting together over plentiful platters of various foods. This exact spirit is captured in Yiannis' Mezethes menu, filled with an abundant selection of appetizers. Why try only a few when you can simply order the Mezethes Platter (Dip platter, Greek salad, dolmades, meatballs, spanakopita, and kalamari - $49.00) and taste them all? (Or at least a lot of different items.) The dip platter arrived first, followed by the second course of everything else later on. Consisting of Melitzano Salata (Roasted Eggplant Spread), Revithia (Hummus), and Taramosalata (Caviar Mousse), all served with pita bread, it was fun to dig into this dish and to sample each of the different flavours. The Melitzano Salata made with garlic and tahini was my favourite because I liked the rough texture and full-on garlic punch. The Revithia was fairly standard, made with garbanzos and tahini. And finally, the Taramosalata was quite exciting with its mayonnaise-like consistency, made with lemon and infused with oil. As a caviar mousse, this dip felt the most luxurious. The pita itself was nothing special and somewhat hard and dry. It could have been purchased at a grocery store, for all I knew.
The rest of the Mezethes arrived on a big platter and consisted of many colourful items to explore. Served with an ample helping of Tzatziki (Cow's Milk Yogurt Dip) made with dill and garlic, it's the ketchup of Greek food! It goes with everything! I loved trying each and every item on the plate, inadvertently taking myself on a little Greek adventure through food. The Horiatiki Salata (Greek Salad) was very fresh, bursting with bright juicy tomatoes, English cucumbers, peppers, onions, and kalamata olives. (I was happy to find kalamata olives dotting every dish.) Adorned generously with creamy feta cheese, the salad was excellent. The Dolmades (Stuffed Grape Leaves) were a surprise! Stuffed with minced beef and rice, I often find them dry and unremarkable. However, at Yiannis the dolmades were full of juicy flavour and one of the best items on the plate! I never thought that I could be impressed with dolmades and here we are! The Keftedes (Yiayia's Meatballs) were a similar experience. Made with minced beef and onions, the meatballs were juicy, flavourful, and not at all dry. Yiayia knows what she's doing! (But of course she does.) The Spanakopita (Spinach & Cheese Pie) is another dish that I often find underwhelming in other restaurants. Not so at Yiannis! Light phyllo pastry was wrapped around fresh baby spinach, dill, and creamy feta, creating a delectable bite. Maybe some of the best spanakopita that I've ever had! Finally, the platter included Kalamarakia (Crispy Squid) served with diced onion and tzatziki. I found the crunchy batter to be really heavy-handed and it was difficult to tell if there was any squid within each bite at all. Overall, there were a lot of great things about this platter and it was an optimal way to share with my co-diners and for us to tas
