We drove through the dark on dusty dirt roads with no illumination other than our own headlights and the near full moon on that fateful late December evening. The sky was clear and the air in that transition from the warm Baja day to the cool evening breeze.
We were in search of a sign, any sign, for La Trinidad - a little Shangri-La in Baja of which we had heard. The sign was spotted, another turn was made onto an even smaller dirt road, and there in front of us were 2 riderless horses standing in the road. Asked them about La Trinidad and a snotty snort was all we got in return as they moved out of our way.
Following the road into the darkness we eventually found an area that looked like an RV park with just a couple lights coming out of the small windows of the trailers. Eyes peered out at us "who are you?" they seemed to ask. After 2 circles we found the barely lit office/restaurant, parked, and walked into the palapa style roofed area.
Just inside there was Mike sitting at his desk, smoking a cigarette, and looking at his computer in the cool evening weather. He greeted us warmly enough and after a few minutes we realized our information was wrong - the Le Trinidad Restaurant was in fact only open for dinner on Fri-Sun - it was Tuesday. Additionally, there were only 2 spots in the RV park occupied - so the entire place was basically deserted.
Yet Mike was there at his desk, watching over his place, and occupying his time with whatever he had on his computer - he didn't offer and we didn't ask. But after a couple minutes of polite conversation we asked if we could look around, and after a minute of looking around I asked if it was possible to buy a couple Modelo Negra's, even though he closed. Mike was happy to oblige as we commented that it was one of our favorite Mexican beers, but seemed so hard to get in the remote areas of Baja (certain distributors have certain areas locked up - if they don't carry it, you don't get it). Mike gave us that little smile of his, said he could always get it, and gave us a little wink.
I instantly liked him - as did almost everyone that met him. Mike was a well liked fixture in this remote little town of La Ribera. He was also quite proud of his fishing and the occasional tournament that he won. I use the past tense, because Mike passed away in May. Shortly afterwards, La Trinidad passed into new hands.
We stopped there this past weekend during our short East Cape fishing trip to check it out and see Mike - it was then we learned of his passing thought the memorial on the wall which was behind where he sat at his desk every day. The desk is gone, but all his fishing pictures are still there, surrounding a memorial plaque for Mike. We spoke with a couple boys working on the property (mowing the dirt, scraping out a few weeds, etc.) and they told us of the new owner - Don Filipe.
We pulled a couple Modelo Negra from the cooler, left enough pesos on the bar with a note to the new owner of our purchase, and had a toast to Mike. While enjoying our beer, we walked around and inspected - what has changed, do they care for the place, etc. We are happy to report that everything was very clean and well maintained - probably even to a little higher standard than what Mike kept. The kitchen was spotless, the bar tools and area were shiny, and the facilities were very clean.
Off we went on our drive south for some sun, snorkeling, and other activities with the plan to stop on our return drive to Rancho Leonero (separate review).
After our day we returned at 5:30 and were immediately met by a large smiling man who spoke almost no English - Filipe the new owner. He had worked for Mike for 11 years and bought the place from Mike's daughter. You could tell he was proud to keep Mike's traditions and name alive as he took over the business. We stayed for a couple refreshing drinks as a few tables were seated and dinner service was being prepared. My margarita was perfect and the hosts (Filipe and his daughter) were gracious.
We didn't stay for dinner since our Rancho was grilling ribs that night, but we enjoyed our short time there. We left thanking Filipe for the fine service and for keeping the place alive. We vowed that we would see him again when we return in December and left with smiles on our faces knowing that Mikes memory is alive and well.
Note 1 - we have never stayed in the RV Park itself. The rating I provide is for the restaurant/bar.
Note 2 - they are now open for lunch every day and dinner Fri-Sun. read more