Back during the summer, I decided I would make it my goal to visit all Texas Monthly 2008 Top 50 BBQ places in one years time. I am now over half way done, and figure it is only fair to write reviews for them.
I'm not sure if this review needs to be written. Few of you most likely know where Highway 82 is, much less ever find the need to take it to get somewhere. Also, I doubt the citizens of Dickens, TX and surrounding areas find this useful. I can just imagine them finishing up their days farming or leaving church and thinking, "Hey, where should we go to lunch?," and another answering, "I will yelp it on my iphone." It just isn't likely. Not that it matters, the citizens of Dickens and the surrounding areas in Dickens County already know what a gem them have. So do the hunters that stop by here hoping to buy a few convenience items, and stumbling to the back of the store. You see it is all the way in the back of this run down little convenience store that the real magic happens. I'm talking about the greatest BBQ sandwich you will ever have, and I don't use those words lightly.
Before I dig into the mighty big words I just spit out, let me tell you how this Austinite who grew up in Dallas feel into this gem in 2002. I was part of a fraternity at Texas Tech, and every semester we would go out to a large farm and hunting grounds an alumni of ours owns to camp out and have fun. To get there you had to take highway 82 out of Lubbock, turn at Dickens, and than proceed into the backwaters of West Texas. As Dickens was the last city available, over the years everyone learned to eat dinner there. To the untrained eye you had two options, steak restaurant or family restaurant. Well we were cheap college kids, so we did the family joint, which happened to have all you can eat catfish. well when we showed up with 60 guys, they flatly told us they could not feed that many (small town after all). So about 35 of us ate there, and some went to the steak place. Yet not everyone did, 3 guys decided they would just eat junk food and headed over to TC's Ponderosa. what they discovered could only be described as magical.
It wasn't until 6 months later when I tried it. I rode with one of the guys that went last time and right before we pulled into the family restaurant he said, "wait, just drop me off at that convenience store and I will meet you guys later." I asked him why and he admitted, "that place has amazing BBQ sandwiches, but don't tell everyone because I don't want them to buy it all and I get none." I of course called shenanigans, and accompanied him to try for myself. I ordered the sliced brisket large with little sauce. What I got was half a pound of thick cut dark crusted brisket on a hamburger roll. this for about $5. I asked them if they smoke these themselves outside. She said yes, they do it for 18 hours..... with propane! Now I love King of the Hill as much as the next guy, but PROPANE, seriously? Propane is for lazy people and yankees. She mentioned they also use their own spice rub and that their grill is used so much it gets a good smoke going and the propane helps keep it consistent from brisket to brisket. So I sat down to eat....
It was amazing. The smokey taste too it was beyond perfect. The whole thing was moist and the crust had a nice bark to it, but it was not hard or dried out at all (one of the benefits of propane I'm told). It was also clear this was a top portion of brisket, not of that lean stuff. Strangely enough however the fat rendered well, making it moist yet still pulled apart easily. For the next 6 years of my undergrad and grad school degree, I made every excuse to go by here. I started taking this way home back to Dallas, and would stop every time visiting the ranch. I tried every meat they have, and the reason this places gets 5 stars is that they are all great. They have 2 types of sausage, and they are densely packed and spicy, hand made in town. The texture to them are fantastic, soft but still alot of character, perfect with their vinegar based sauce. Speaking of the sauce, normally I only use it sparingly, and never with brisket or pork. Here however I always ask for just alittle on the sandwich, and melds the bread and meat together nicely. The turkey is also good, better than what I have gotten at most BBQ places where the turkey is always dried out and tough. The surprise for me however was the ham. thick cut and juicy, with a delicious smoked flavor that brings out the sweetness of the meat. Others are good, but stick with brisket, sausage, and ham.
There is no excuse for anyone going through this town not to stop. I think you should make a special trip for it. Strangely enough the time I ordered straight brisket it was not as good as the sandwich. The magic is something with the sandwich. They are huge, well priced, and packed in that little wax paper. It truly is a hidden gem of Texas. read more