On my first trip back home to St. Louis from Los Angeles in more than a decade, I went on a hunt…read morefor the summer home/hunting cabin that belonged to my grandparents. I had not been there since I was 13, one week after my mother died in 1989. The area was in a flood plain on the bank of the Big Piney River near the tiny town of Devil's Elbow, MO. I knew it was off Highway Z near I-44. I remembered along the way I used to look for a very high wooden railroad truss bridge, a Hillbilly General Store, the Bobber Cafe, some old, dilapidated buildings, a very old steel truss bridges, a tiny cemetery, a restaurant I used to call The Purple Cow (actually called Sirloin Stockade in Rolla) and the cabins and outbuildings where childhood friends of mine and old cronies of my grandfather lived. I had only the memories of a child guiding me. GPS was useless, both because I did not know the name of the road, nor could I get a GPS signal. This was one cool, melancholic adventure back in time.
I found the steel truss bridge. It was closed. I was lost.
I found Sheldon's Market and Post Office. The nice young woman inside skeptically listened to my story. I dropped some names of my grandparent's friends who had died more than 20 years ago. She did not recognize the names. She called her cousin. He did not recognize the names.
As I was beginning to lose hope and started to think my grandparents' home had washed away in the floods so long ago that no one even remembered, a very nice woman drove up in her car. She asked us what we were looking for and we shared my story with her. She remembered my grandparents! She led us to the house (the long way because the bridge was closed.) She told us that her nephew (or cousin?) had started up a canoe rental business next door.
We saw that the "neighborhood" (6 houses on concrete stilts) had been pretty beaten by time and harsh weather.
We rented a canoe for $40. The proprietor drove us up the river 6 miles and we dropped in. The weather was gorgeous and we enjoyed a lazy float down the Big Piney River. There are sandbars in the middle where you can fish, look for crawdads, sunbathe, and enjoy the peace and tranquility. I remember my grandfather used to lose his mind when speedboats would fly down the river in the summertime because they chewed up the bottom, eroded the shores, and disrupted his silence. There was none of that on our Monday on the river. Just hawks soaring overhead, a cool breeze, the sound of our paddles, and calmness. We only saw one other couple in kayaks. So refreshing for a couple of Angelenos to spend an afternoon in rural Missouri just BREATHING clean air.
There are some rope swings overhanging the water right before you dock again back at Route 66 Canoe Rental. Use them. So much fun.
We pulled the canoes back onto the concrete boat launch and no one was there to receive us. We walked on a little bit, only slightly scared that we might get shot for trespassing (as this became a recent court battle on the Meramec or Missouri River, I guess.) A giant Saint Bernard mix ran toward us. We were not sure if that might be our demise instead, but it quickly became apparent that she was very friendly. (I flashed back to the pack of stray dogs, left by hunters or lost, that my grandparents and I used to feed on our deck when I was a kid. Papa and I used to pick the ticks off of them by the light of the bug zapper.)
I looked up to see two men standing on a deck. I waved hello and explained what we were doing, tromping around on private property. The younger man told me he bought my grandparents' house and was rehabbing it. He invited us in. Although the deck had fallen off the front of the building during the most recent flood, the exterior of the house looked pretty much as I remembered it. The inside looked smaller, but I am bigger now. I remembered seeing the water marks around the walls as a child, preferring to think of it as wainscoting or crown molding, depending how high it the water rose each flood season. I remembered putting the baby bluegill, sunfish, frogs, and crawdads that I caught in the bathtub filled with our fresh well water, rocks and plants; my lovely terrarium prevented my family from bathing but they were so happy that I was happy. I remembered listening to Michael Jackson, Cindy Lauper, Eurythmics, and INXS on our porch swing under the house with my friends. I remembered long walks up the dirt road after supper, begging my grandfather to take the bass boat out the next day. I remembered the local trading post AM radio show each morning. So many memories.
I understand that my experience with Route 66 Canoe Rental is very different than that of someone without history in the area. But please go make your own memories on the Big Piney. This is an area preserved in time, pushed aside by I-44. Go enjoy it.
