Camillo is a recent discovery for me and my family. I've been curious about this place for years,…read morebut somehow I've never had the chance to try it until recently. Clearly, I have been missing out. Camillo is a wonderful, welcoming place with great food and an amazing selection of Negronis.
Named after Count Camillo Negroni[1], the man who allegedly invented the negroni cocktail in 1919, Camillo offers a variety of classic Italian cocktails, spritzes, vermouth, amari, local beer and wines on tap. The negroni menu alone is worth the visit: nine variations, many centered around unexpected spirits and local ingredients (one features mezcal, another artichoke liqueur). If, like me, you love a negroni, you will be in heaven here.
The space is done up in an utterly charming mix of exposed brick, tiled floors, and wood-paneled ceilings -- equally suited to a first date or a rowdy group dinner. Old-fashioned hanging lamps and beveled mirrors add warmth, and the white marble bar up front is arguably the best seat in the house.
For starters, we tried the fegatini (chicken liver pâté with grape marmalade), which were excellent. The Carciofi alla Giudia (fried whole artichokes with fresh mint) are a quintessential Roman dish; don't skip them! The Insalata Mista (baby lettuce, almonds, ricotta salata, orange, and anchovy vinaigrette) is wonderfully flavorful and refreshing.
The heart of the menu is the pinsa: pizza's ancient Roman predecessor, born centuries before Neapolitans ever thought to combine tomatoes and mozzarella. Kneaded into wonky ovals and historically topped with herbs, the flatbread was so central to Roman life that Virgil wove it into the Aeneid. At Camillo, chef Michele Baldacci makes his pinsa with a proprietary blend of rice, wheat, and soy flours, left to ferment for over 48 hours. The result is crunchier and chewier than a typical Neapolitan round (somewhere between Rome's thin crust style and focaccia-like pizza al taglio) with a slightly nutty flavor and a crust sturdy enough to handle a generous pile of toppings. We tried the Salsiccia e Broccoli (pork sausage, broccoli rabe, tomatoes, mozzarella): The sausage does a beautiful job of mellowing the bitterness of the rabe. I loved the thin, crispy crust. The menu also features the brilliant Romana pinsa, split down the middle: Half Amatriciana (spicy tomato sauce and pork jowl), half cacio e pepe (black pepper and sage). A clever way to pay homage to two of Rome's most iconic pasta dishes at once.
For pasta, the Gnocchi alla Romana (sliced semolina gnocchi, tomatoes, parmigiano; add pork sausage for $2) are a winner. The fresh pappardelle with Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail and beef cheeks braised with red wine, tomatoes, and cloves) is a dense, soul-satisfying Roman classic; the ragu clings to those wide, fresh noodles beautifully.
If you're particularly hungry, for a main course try the Abbacchio alla Romana: a traditional Roman recipe of goat roasted with rosemary and white wine, served with polenta and Swiss chard. This unctuous dish is as flavorful as it is rich. If you prefer seafood, the Baccalà (fresh Icelandic wild cod roasted with tomatoes, olives, capers, mashed potatoes, and fresh oregano) is fantastic.
For dessert, the Tiramisù is always a winner, but I found the Biddrina Gelato of amaretto and orange absolutely amazing. If you want to linger a little longer, the affogato (Italian espresso poured over vanilla ice cream) is a lovely way to end the night, especially with a shot of their house-made amari on the side.
Come with family, come with friends, come to celebrate a birthday, or come with a date: Camillo will surprise you.
---------------------------
[1] Fun fact: the postcard they give you with your check is that count Camillo Negroni's ID. Under "Employment", the count wrote: "Well off".