I blame Anthony Bourdain for raising my expectations to the stratosphere as he waxed profusely about Joël Robuchon's culinary artistry on his Travel Channel series, "No Reservations". I don't know what gastronomical orgasm I was expecting from this highly revered haute cuisine establishment, but I wasn't quite reaching for one of those skinny, filter-free French cigarettes after digesting a fine dinner here. I was impressed by a lot of things here, but it just wasn't quite the transcendent experience I kept reading about. After all, it consistently ranks right up there on Restaurant Magazine's list of the World's 50 Best Restaurants, so I was ready to genuflect at the first sign of a plate.
I should explain I was in Paris for one day...yes, just one day as Jamie W. had never been to the City of Lights before, and we were just across the channel in London on holiday. He convinced me to take the 5:40AM Eurostar and sprint through a city that requires at least a year to explore. We had 12 hours. So I decided that if I was going to be in Paris, my first time in over a quarter-century, then I was determined to dine in style. The trick was that we had to be at the Gare du Nord station by 8:30PM to catch the Eurostar back. As it turned out, L'Atelier opened at 6:30PM. Parfait! We got here early after the Musée D'Orsay closed and posed in front of the row of Vespas in front of the restaurant on Rue Montalembert.
I knew we would be seated at the counter from everything I read beforehand. It feels like a cross between a sushi and a tapas bar only very, very high-end luxuriant (photo: http://bit.ly/1hFgQcs). The menu is, of course, in French, and I thought my three years of high school French would save us from embarrassment. It didn't. I was also unrealistically hoping we could splurge and try the 12-course Discovery Menu for € 199 (photo: http://bit.ly/1iA7m3l), but we had roughly ninety minutes to dine and dash. Sans espoir! So we basically did the equivalent of wearing a blindfold and pointing our finger in the dark. While fretting over our choices, we enjoyed the complimentary Corbeille à Pain (Bread Basket) (photo: http://bit.ly/1efszUm). We're in Paris. Of course, they know how to bake. Jamie and I then each ordered appetizers or at least we think they were appetizers.
The more modest of the two was the € 44 Le Thon Confit sur un Cœur de Laitue Garni de Fins Légumes Croquants, or tuna confit on a heart of lettuce and topped with crunchy vegetables (photo: http://bit.ly/1lOT6I4). It was a most flavorful Twinkie-size croquette. The far fancier creation was the € 33 La Langoustine en Papillote Croustillante au Basilic, or lobster in a crispy preparation with basil (photo: http://bit.ly/1gecIkq). Quite rich and much more in line with the Robuchon brand, I think. Our waiter then regaled us with a house specialty and the one dish Bourdain couldn't get over, the Pommes de Terre en Purée, Robuchon Style (photo: http://bit.ly/1gg1Qpr). That translates into mashed potatoes with the butter obviously taking a greater proportion of the dish than would be medically recommended.
They were very good, but I was surprised this was considered THE dish to have here. A part of me must still crave the random potato chunk to break up the consistency, but no, the gloss and texture was beyond immaculate on these spuds. Jamie gravitated toward the Yankee implication of the € 46 Le Black Angus Grillé à la Plancha aux Echalotes Confites et Jeunes Pousses, an iron-grilled steak with caramelized shallots and sprouts decoratively presented with some sort of green emulsion (photo: http://bit.ly/1eqAPBi). It was hearty but honestly nothing that overwhelmed the senses. Jamie was a bit meh on it. Mine was more uniformly impressive, the € 49 Le Foie de Veau aux Rouelles d'Oignon Croustillantes et Son Jus Acidulé.
This was a hefty portion of veal liver perfectly prepared with crispy onions and a sauce that was a tad on the sour side (photo: http://bit.ly/1lOTiXQ). I loved it. It had the perfect texture, velvety and not at all mealy. Now this was Paris. We ended our meal by sharing a most decadent dessert, the € 18 Chocolate Trend, a creamy chocolate ganache with cocoa nibs and an Oreo cookie inside (photo: http://bit.ly/1kbzy0H). It was rich but not overly sweet and frankly the ideal way to conclude our dining experience. While Robuchon was not there, his very young-looking staff was a blur of motion in creating the precise dishes (photo: http://bit.ly/1gee9iD). It's definitely worth a visit to this best-of-the-best French hot spot, but it didn't quite take our breath away.
FOOD - 4 stars...impeccable presentations, some dishes quite wonderful, a few not as much
AMBIANCE - 4 stars...very classy even if the counter approach was not my preference
SERVICE - 5 stars...extremely accommodating...and we got a complimentary second helping of the mashed potatoes
TOTAL - 4 stars...ah, so this is French haute cuisine read more