I have an odd sort of relationship with mom and pop/blue collar food slingers. I love the idea of their food - simple and well done comfort food that's accessible and affordable, but I'm also acutely aware of the failings of many of these places in their execution. An over-reliance on frozen and canned goods, and kitchen staff that is there because this was the only job they could get, instead of professional training or a passion for food, all heavily weigh upon the product that comes out many a down home-style kitchen.
Parkside Pub and Smokehouse falls into the blue collar category, as a purveyor of smoked meats and typical pub foods that's located in Hali(in)famous Highfield Park. We were there to give their Thursday night trivia a go, since our normal locale was taking a break from it for the holidays, and I thought it would be a good opportunity to try out their grub.
The place is massive, with a bar in the middle along the back wall and large seating sections on either side, a good-sized stage for performances, and what appears to be a depressingly large VLT room in the back. There's not much to be said of the decor - some beer paraphernalia on the walls, wooden tables and chairs that are nicer than say the Oasis, but aren't noteworthy. There's nothing particularly BBQ shack-esque about it, other than the parallel blue collar-ness.
We were given free reign to sit where we willed, so we sat a bit to the side so that we were some what close to the screen where the trivia would be projected, but not directly in front of the doors on a cool winter evening.
Their menu is pretty big; not quite Boston Pizza or Chinese restaurant big, but there's several dozen items on it. Trusting that the BBQ fare is the freshest and least from-frozen of the bunch, I went with the smokehouse combo - smoked chicken wings, pulled pork, brisket and coleslaw, cornbread and fries.
We took in the sights and the sounds while we waited for our food, and when it arrived, for better or for worse, trivia was late starting and we were able to fully focus on the food and minimize the BBQ sauce stains on our answer sheets. The first thing you notice is the mass of food that comes with the smokehouse combo - the pulled pork and brisket comes in two sizeable ramekins, and four or five full wings sat atop a large mound of fries. Being a big fan of smoked chicken wings, I dug in to those first. They were heavily sauced, so it was hard to discern much smoke flavour, but it was there, and the wings were moist and tender.
If the wings were over-sauced and their smokiness hidden, the pulled pork and brisket were at a whole other level. In the ramekins they were practically meat soup, but instead of broth it was a cloyingly sweet sauce that likely came out of an ungodly large jug/bucket. This was especially a tragedy for the slices of brisket, whose smoke rings may or may not have existed, and any skill the kitchen might have with the smoker was impossible to identify. The portions were incredibly generous and made me wonder about both cost control by their staff and the quality of the ingredients. I did my due diligence to not waste food, but I couldn't finish either and was not inclined to take them home.
The cornbread was actually fairly good, and was quite light and not too crumbly, to the point where I wondered if the kitchen was cheating with cornflour instead of cornmeal. While it wasn't the terrifying, neon green coleslaw of KFC and grocery stores, Parkside's creamy slaw wasn't anything special.
My French fries were of the hand-cut variety, were quite crispy, and weren't too dark either, so were all around good fries.
While Parkside may serve its purpose as the local watering hole, it has a lot of wasted potential as a destination BBQ joint in a market that is low on smoked meats. read more