With great anticipation my fellow diners and I, a party of six, arrived at Quay after a four month wait for a table, in expectation of being delighted like never before. Our table had stunning views of both Sydney icons, the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House. Outstanding.
We opted for the Chef's Menu, the degustation with matched wines, a journey of eight courses.
Our first dish arrived, wonderful sashimi, presented with a fine attention to detail. Magnificent and crisp, the nasturtiums and Tasmanian wasabi providing a wonderful counterpoint, with the matched wine completing the symphony. Even the plates, a lovely glittering contrast in textures.
The next dish, an exotic salad of endive, kohlrabi, purple carrots with rhubarb, beetroot and violets, imbued with pomegranate molasses. The flavours and textures were a delight, despite the lack of animal protein.
With relish I anticipated next course, poached southern rock lobster with golden tapioca, squid noodles and lobster velvet. Actually, rather bland. Beautifully presented and prepared, without doubt. Never mind, our taste buds are not all alike, and the previous courses forgive much.
Next course, slow cooked partridge breast, pumpernickel, walnuts, quinoa, truffle, chestnuts and milk skin, promised some interesting flavours. The tiny morsel of partridge breast rested on a creamy substance the colour of stuff we don't normally eat. Perhaps it's just me, but I am not sure serving anything that looks like a small plate of stodgy poo, is a good idea, no matter how good it apparently tastes. And sadly, the taste also was a little underwhelming. Slow cooked seems to be a trend at the moment, but the partridge was difficult to cut, chewy, and, well, bland. Tasteless, even. Several dishes left the table unfinished.
Our next main resonated with my carnivorous nature; confit of milk fed Suffolk lamb, purple garlic, Jerusalem artichokes, sheep's milk curd, salt bush shoots, fennel pollen and Pantelleria capers. The plate arrived before us, the presentation again faultless. But, I was asking myself, where is the flavour? Where is the lamby taste? Some lovely ingredients, without question, but a theme was beginning to unfortunately resonate with me.
Our last main is slow braised Berkshire pig jowl, maltose crackling, prunes and cauliflower cream perfumed with prune kernel oil. Pork, and cracking in particular, is one of my guilty sinful pleasures, the rich fatty flavours and crunchy texture of well roasted cracking filling a special place in my heart.
A square of delightfully presented pork was served, resting on a bed of puree and a couple of prunes and their juices. The crackling looking very finely wrought, the pork skin washed with maltose to give it a unique texture and flavour. With great relish, I tucked in with anticipation of the rich flavours of pork and crackling. Clearly my palate is insufficiently educated to appreciate the refined flavours, because for the life of me I could not get it. Perhaps the maltose is too subtle for me, the ordinary diner, but I don't get it. Why play with perfectly good crackling. The prunes completely ruined any hope of this dish resurrecting the meal for me. I could not eat them, and to me the flavour was so overpowering that one might as well have not bothered with the pork.
The first desert was named Jewels, and comprised of a collection of small hand made sweets, sorbets, raspberries and other sumptuous and glittery nibblets, served in a bowl cleverly crafted to be held, nay cupped in one's hand. It looked delightful, and it was indeed. A masterly mix of tastes and textures on the tongue - hard and soft, sweet and tart, lovely. Exceptional? Hmm, perhaps not. But it was without a doubt beautifully crafted.
Finally, the fabled Snow Egg, for those that had ordered it, and for the others, Ewe's milk ice-cream, caramel, roasted walnuts, prune, Pedro Ximinez, chocolate bark, pulled toffee, vanilla milk skin.
The Snow Egg was truly a delight to look at, however our particular variety was created using star fruit, which is not my favourite fruit. Unlike the ice cream and chocolate, which for me book-ended the evening - first and last by far the most memorable in my personal opinion. The flavours of chocolate and ice-cream, with the caramel, pulled toffee and Pedro Ximenez, was for me a winner. The chocolate bark was sublime, and th esheep's milk ice cream far surpassed expectations.
We all agreed that none of the dishes made us stand up and shout excitedly "I can eat this all night! Bring me a hundred of them!" which was, I think, what some of us were hoping for.
Perhaps we had built our expectations up to an unreasonable level - yet, with a much-lauded restaurant, crowned with three hats as sublime amongst the many in Australia, and a four month wait, what else would one expect? Hardly calls for a lasses-faire approach, really, does it?
So, that was our experience. Like a fine wine, knowledge is best when shared. read more