In the shadows of Amalienborg Palace, AOC lies in the 300+ year old cellar of a historic mansion. Sommelier Christian Aarø Mortensen and Rasmus Grønbech used to run a restaurant here called Premisse. Since Grønbech left to open Grønbech & Churcill, Chef Ronny Emborg has joined to transform the restaurant to culinary incarnation. I head read many good things about it and how it was one of the strongholds of the current Nordic cooking movement.
It would be fitting that we would follow our lunch from Grønbech with that of Emborg in the same day, though completely by reservation coincidence. Making your way downstairs into the cellar, you are pitted against a massive wine room presenting some of the best wines from around the world. As I waited for my friends I took a seat in very comfortable lounge area. When they arrived we were led towards the back and sat close to the kitchen though it was just out of view.
Our server Sheila greeted us with a very cheerful manner and we were given some moments to decide on how we wanted to approach the menu. Of course this was a vacation to we were going all in on the Sensory Courses. We also decided to half get one wine pairing and half getting the other and splitting. As it was decided it would look like the following:
The Sensory Courses
MACKEREL, in hay ash, parsley, green tomatoes & buttermilk
EGG YOLK, mi-cuit, cauliflower dill seeds, chives oil & bleak roe
DANISH OYSTER, poached, new green peas, pods & cabbage turnip
SWEETBREAD, fried, milk skin, pearl onions & thyme
PORK BRISKET, grilled with malt, small radishes, potatoes & rams
COW MILK CHEESE course, with syrup and rye, bread
BLUE SHEEP CHEESE course
CELERY, granite, walnut, apple & dill oil
MILK ICE CREAM, buttermilk dust, fried salsify & sugar beet syrup
Wine Selections
Pairing 1
2009 Wild Sauvignon Blanc
Greywacke Vineyards, Marlborough, New Zealand
2010 Chardonnay, Beaujolais Blanc
Domaine Terres Dorees, Jean-Paul Brun, France
2010 Grüner Veltliner, Rotes Tor
Weingut Franz Hirtzberger, Wachau, Austria
2009 Nuits Saint Georges
Domaine Daniel Bocquenet, Bourgogne, France
2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Clos du Val Winery, Napa Valley, California, USA
2009 Eiswein, Riesling Berg
Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, Austria
2008 Château Doisy-Vedrines, 2. Cru Classé Sauternes
Bordeaux, France
Pairing 2
2009 Wild Sauvignon Blanc
Greywacke Vineyards, Marlborough, New Zealand
2010 Chardonnay, Beaujolais Blanc
Domaine Terres Dorees, Jean-Paul Brun, France
2010 Grüner Veltliner, Axpoint Smaragd
Weingut Franz Hirtzberger, Austria
2009 Echezeaux
Domaine Daniel Bocquenet, Bourgogne, France
2004 Cabernet Sauviognon, Howell Mountain
Dunn Vineyards, Napa Valley, California
2009 Eiswein, Riesling Berg
Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, Austria
2008 Château Doisy-Vedrines, 2. Cru Classé Sauternes
Bordeaux, France
Emborg certainly is an ambassador to the New Nordic Cuisine. The cooking is quite progressive and the flavor combinations very intriguing. As an award winning sommelier, the wine selections with a few overlaps, were globally varied and matched very well.
Sheila our captain and the rest of the staff were quite fun considering what looks like a very formal environment. We again asked about Smørrebrød and traditional Danish lunch (as we did at all the restaurants) and again we got very lit up responses. In fact our servers at AOC would be considered Mafia at a popular Danish lunch joint in town,visiting several times a month so needless to say we got the great recommendations there and a number of other good local spots. Great friendly comfortable service. Afterwards we got an extensive tour of the kitchen and also got an in depth description of service and many of processes that go behind preparing the good well before it is cooked for diners.
Excellent, beautiful food while well taken care of. A stellar example of how Copenhagen is a force in the gastronomic world.