The restaurant, while owned/operated by the Steigenberger Hotel, is located off-premises, about 50 meters from the hotel proper, in a centuries old forest manager's (Waldmeister) hut. It was turned into a restaurant in the late 1800's and due to the historic nature was preserved even though everything around it is very "modern German" in architechture.
It was a sunny spring day in Frankfurt, maybe 24 degrees and I went to dinner around 21:30 and finished about 23:00. The temperature at that time was pleasant in the restaurant with a very gentle flow of evening air coming in through a few open windows away from the serving tables. You could tell it had been much warmer indoors earlier and the reviews about the oppressive summer heat are understandable now.
Okay, the review. I was dining later than the typical dinner rush at a business hotel restaurant, i.e., on the weekend. Most of the traffic here, on asking, is during the week when there are more business travelers.
Ambience: Very relaxed atmosphere. Smart casual to casual was the dress of the other diners. Typical German traditional restaurant: bench seating along the walls, cushioned wood chairs else. The interior roof is wood shingled, lighting is comfortable. There are windows that open, and, as mentioned earlier, some were. There is a front dining area and another in the back, identical to the front, with a buffet and wait staff area between.
Service: Younger German male and female waitstaff working primarily one to each dining area. The waiter was my primary server, I did not have any interaction with the waiteess although I did observe her bring a dish to another table in my area and drinks, once, to yet another. The waiter was knowledgeable with regards to regional and seasonal specialties (it is Spargel season) and also recommended against the €28 buffet as, in his words, "we are not busy on Saturday so some of the food has been under the lights a while and will be dry." We discussed a wine vs. beer option (I did not see a sommalier, I know the high-end restaurant inside has one) and I decided to first decide on dinner before ordering a drink. During the meal he checked once after the food was served to see if it was to my satisfacion then left me to eat in peace until I needed something. Another table of four older (50's) Americans came in and he also waited on them. One diner mentioned having pork medallions in chantrelle sauce on a previous visit but she did not see them on the menu. The waiter told her the dish is seasonal but went to the kitchen and came back letting her know they had some fresh pork medallions on hand and the chef would be glad to prepare her a dish with them knowing she like the chantrelle sauce dish. He also went over the difference between German dry Riesling and the sugary substitute he had experienced outside of Germany in the past. Personable, professional, and prompt. Excellent service. I would temper this assesment by noting there were only 7 tables (out of about 14) i use in his section. Also, no grumbling about it being 5 minutes from "no more guests" time as the evening went on. The listed time for dinner service ending is, I think, 22:30, but a few folks came in after that and were greeted and treated as if they were the first customers of the day.
Food Variety: It's traditional German food. The hotel staff I encountered all recommended it as a good example of Hessen cuisine. If you want variety, head across the street to the airport. They have KFC and McDonalds, have at it.
Food Flavor: I had the beef medallions and wild game sausage pan. The sausage had an excellent game flavor and was seasoned well, The beef medallions were fantastic - order "rare" for American medium-rare. The small salad on the plate, roasted potatoes, and bacon-wrapped haricots vert were all good. However, there was also a cheese-topped broiled tomato on the plate the looked good but was caught somewhere between raw and broiled and so left me a bit confused as to why it was included (color?) because that made it both difficult to eat and rather bland. Everything that is food on a plate should be edible, taste good, and compliment the main dish. This did none of that.
Food temperature: The meat and vegetables were all spot-on, however, the potatoes were a mix on new from the pan and leftover from the warmer. It did not, however detract from the flavor.
Value: Given the location, the primary clientele, and the fact that it's Germany, I'd say it's slightly more expensive compared to similar restaurants elsewhere in the country. It was cheaper, however, than I thought it would be after passing the posted menu of another restaurant in the hotel on my way to this one.
Overall: I would eat here again if staying overnight at Frankfurt Airport. It's a refreshing change from the "fusion" food at most business hotels. It would also be a good place to take guests for a meal before they fly out. read more
