After 16 years at the Mandarin Oriental, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is closing in 2027. I saw this…read morewhen I was researching restaurants for our trip to London last month, and immediately went to book a table for a Wednesday date night with Matt B.
I put it into our calendar and only realized the day of that I'd never actually completed the reservation. I called the restaurant to see if they had any record of it on their end, and while they didn't, they were able to take us that night, at 8:00 as I'd originally planned. This felt like a stroke of luck.
As it turns out, Dinner is huge, and I doubt it's hard to book any night of the week. The space is also less impressive than I expected, given the high-end hotel, the two Michelin stars, and the tasting menu format (though a la carte is also available). It's nice, but I thought it was kind of weird, cavernous and brightly lit, more suited to a hotel breakfast situation than a nationally significant fancy restaurant. The dining room was also quiet and we got a table right next to a busing station. The vibes, as they say, were a little bit off.
Everything else, though, was excellent. Service was flawless, warm and professional. We ordered a wine pairing, and it was fun and well conceived, with six wines to go with our meal, four from Europe and two from our home state of California.
We opted for the full tasting menu for our Dinner experience, the eight-course Journey Through History, built from historic British dishes, researched by food historians with the help of the British Library. Unique, interesting concept and exceptional execution. Also a ton(ne) of food, especially if you are, for example, still full from a giant lunch at Dishoom. There was a six-course option, which made more sense in retrospect, but my FOMO won out.
The first course was a coronation chicken tartlet (c. 1953), a bite-sized tartlet piled with creamy, flavorful curried chicken salad, finished with apricot, raisin, and smoked almond. My husband is vehemently anti-mayo, so I got to eat two, and would gladly have a dozen for a picnic lunch. Then we got brown bread and butter. Course two was hay-smoked salmon (c. 1730), a lovely piece of gently smoked salmon with lemon salad, gentleman's relish, and sorrel.
Next came the famous meat fruit (c. 1500), the dish I was most excited about eating at Dinner. This was a playful dish of chicken liver parfait encased in mandarin jelly, presented in the shape of a mandarin orange. The illusion was complete, something right out of Is It Cake? It was also maybe the best chicken liver I've ever had, incredibly lush and delicious, with just enough sweetness and tang from the jelly. The portion was large, the size of a mandarin orange but rich and calorie-dense, served with grilled sourdough.
The turbot in cider (c. 1940) was a beautiful piece of fish, moist and flaky, with plated with flamed mussels, smoked onion, and trout roe. It was one of the two dishes not available on the six-course menu, and I'm glad that we got it. The final savory dish was the Hereford beef (c. 1830). an absolutely fantastic piece of steak with mushroom ketchup, smoked onion, and bone marrow, to which we added an order of the triple-cooked potatoes. So good, and so heavy. My stomach started hurting about halfway through this course.
The roast peach (c. 1885) was a welcome palate cleanser, light and fruity, an array of sweet peach with chartreuse, jasmine, yogurt, and peach sorbet. Then came the tipsy cake (c. 1858), a house signature and the other addition to the leaner menu. This was a splendid cake, with buttery brioche buns soaked in a Sauternes and brandy cream and served with spit-roasted pineapple. It was also an insane portion, with a full cake in its own little cast-iron for each of us. Neither of us came close to finishing this. Thankfully, the final course was a small farewell bite, Heston's dodger with jam (c. 1960), a shortbread cookie with buttercream and raspberry.
We had grand plans of walking around the neighborhood and taking the subway home, but I required a taxi, where I reclined in the back seat and closed my eyes until we got to our hotel, where I promptly lost part of my Dinner. Was it worth it? 100%, no regrets. I'm glad I got to indulge in this wonderful Journey Through History.