What's open on a Monday evening for food can be really hit or miss, so when I was looking for a…read morepre-trivia meal in the lower part of the North End, The Duke's had little competition in the area and ingloriously won by default.
This space used to be the Foggy Goggle, and it's gotten a little bit of a freshening up since then, but the narrow bar still has a cozy feel.
There was a handful of other customers, but unsurprisingly it was relatively quiet.
The menu is moderately-sized for a pub, with several each of apps, sandwiches and entrees - enough to give you a good selection but not so much that you're overwhelmed with choices.
In non-American chain restaurant boycott times, I'm a big fan of Wendy's bacon mushroom melt, so it was an easy choice when I spotted the "Mushroom Peppercorn Burger" on the menu. My bowl-loving wife opted for the Mexican Rice Bowl, one of several dishes that are gluten free or can be made so.
A moderate wait later (shout out to what appeared to be the lone cook in the kitchen doing his best), and our food was before us.
My burger was a messy sight to behold, with the peppercorn-dotted gravy posing from the burger and onto the plate.
More importantly, it lives up to its visual appeal! The gravy was a stole the show, with the prominent, peppery bite playing off the rich, velvety gravy. Bacon and frizzled onions added some crunch, while melty cheese and mushrooms amped up the umami. Somehow, the bun withstood the onslaught, although this burger was absolutely a multi-napkin affair.
My side Caesar salad was perfectly adequate - nothing to write home about, but nothing to complain about either.
My wife enjoyed the mix of flavours and textures in her Mexican rice bowl, and although the grilled chicken portion was good and generous (and blessedly not from-frozen, diced chicken), the rest of the bowl ingredients were a bit lacking. A little more rice would go a long way to fill things out a bit more, with limited effect on food costs.
Our next time back also found us coming by on another quiet, Monday evening before trivia elsewhere.
Spice bags are a bit of a "thing" in Ireland, as a post-bar meal that originally Chinese takeout spots served up, and then they propagated to other restaurants and eventually beyond Irish borders. Some pubs in Halifax have picked up the low-key trend as well, which isn't surprising since at its core, it's just chopped up chicken fingers, fries and seasonings - all of which pubs typically have anyway.
The Duke's version eschews the takeout bag roots of the dish and gets messier with a sweet chili sauce, as well as a curry mayo on the side. I'd definitely prefer to see the fries and chicken tossed in a dry rub so that they can stay crispy, and the cloying, commercial sauce just isn't necessary. If you're looking for some deep fried and indulgent, this is your fix.
The Duke's has charming bones and some interesting items on the menu, but some small tweaks could easily elevate their offerings and make this a great local for the neighbourhood.