Alo is a spectacular restaurant. The best, by a significant margin, in Toronto, and truly one of the best in North America.
18 months into a two year sojourn in Toronto, we have struggled a little to find restaurants that compare in quality and creativity to what we have enjoyed in San Francisco. While Toronto prides itself on its dining scene, we've found many places that are good, but few that are exceptional, and often feel that there is an over-reliance on the space and image rather than nailing the more complex combination of elements that define excellence. We have tried hard, and consistently worked through various lists of the top rated restaurants in the city. For the context of this review, our favorites prior to our visiting Alo have been Dandylion, Edulis, and at the other end of the spectrum, Patois and Playa Hacienda.
We ate at Alo's chef's table this week: a small bar/counter facing the open kitchen that seats six side by side. The entrance to the (upstairs) restaurant is wonderfully unobtrusive, a pleasant change in a city that often values street presence and high styled architecture. There is no pretense in the outer wrapper here.
Once seated, it was immediately apparent that Alo was somewhere special. A choice of napkin was a unique little opener that pleased my wife, who noted that white linens often leave lint on black clothing. It was smart and beautifully executed. The front of house staff - the gentleman I believe was the maitre d' - was superb - understated, professional yet welcoming in a manner that one only finds in the very best restaurants. I will struggle for the words, but is no pretense, just warm, welcoming professionalism. You know it when you see it and it feels exactly right.
The kitchen staff, working in front of us, were similar - quietly effective, engaged and busy - each with a clear sense of purpose. Not a lot of talking, just focused efficiency and obvious pride.
We enjoyed the wine pairings with dinner, and the wine choices were not only creative and interesting, but delivered with wonderful passion and enthusiasm by the sommelier. This is not a place that needs or wants you to be drinking thousand dollar burgundies to enjoy your meal. The wine selections were thoughtful and beautifully suited to the food, and we came away with an expanded vision of what we might consider at our own table.
The food? Just perfect. I can't provide the litany of tastes and flavors that we had in what was at least a dozen courses, but let me just say that it flowed perfectly, included some spectacular tastes, and was just the right amount of food. Chef Patrick Kriss is beautifully creative and in our meal, found just the right weight and subtlety in each dish to leave you dazzled but satiated. There were no weak plates in the meal.
The staff interaction, by numerous members of the team, as one would see at a Keller or Daniel Patterson restaurant, was flawlessly executed. The music, a perfect soundtrack homage to Kriss's rocking Scarburian roots.
The meal reminded us in many ways of our early experiences at Saison in San Francisco - a unique combination of understatement with spectacularly creative, beautifully executed food. The professionalism and excellence of the restaurant made less intimidating by the Fleetwood Mac soundtrack. Saison vaulted from nowhere to two Michelin stars, and now, with an architectural minimalist venue to match, three stars. That Saison could dethrone The French Laundry as the Bay Area's top restaurant is a testimony to the subtlety involved in delivering one of the best meals you have ever had in a venue and forum in which you immediately feel comfortable. Patrick Kriss has that touch. Michelin may not have Canada in their world view, but make no mistake, he is destined for great things. read more