(I wrote this review of Oyamel on August 8, 2007 during Restaurant Week)
Oyamel: You Disappoint Me, Young Grasshopper
Through many meals over the years at two of my favorite DC spots, Jaleo and Zaytinya, I've grown fond of Jose Andres' inventive cooking and tapas-based approach. Little plates make a social meal more communal, as well as scalable. You can pig out if you're starved, or eat more lightly if you (or your bank account) prefer. And if there's something you don't care for, you can move right along to the next item. With high hopes, I arrived at Oyamel during Restaurant Week, but I unfortunately found myself wanting to move along to the next item far too frequently.
Since it sells itself as a kitchen that prepares authentic Oaxacan/Mexican cooking (unlike most of what passes for "Mexican" food in the US), I will allow the possibility that Oyamel is offering dishes and preparations that are unfamiliar to my palate. But when I'm paying for a meal out, I do expect to enjoy the food on a basic level, and I just didn't find most of what I sampled particularly tasty.
An adventurous eater, I started my meal by making a beeline for the grasshopper tacos (tacos de chapulines), after reading about their presence on the menu in various reviews of Oyamel. The menu described a soft tortilla filled with guacamole and insects sauteed in garlic, shallots, tequila, and chipotles, so I expected some crunch, a bunch of familiar flavors, and then perhaps some unexpected ones. Biting into my taco, unfortunately all I got was bitter, sour greasiness. The chipotles, which were marinated in heavy oil, overpowered the taco with their sour, smoky flavor and I could taste nothing else, while in the meantime, a stream of orange oil leaked all over my plate and the table. Other reviews have described this dish as having an unexpected sweetness, but if it was supposed to be there, the heavy hand on the marinated chipotles obliterated it.
My companions passed on trying my grasshoppers and we shared a tuna ceviche, a red snapper ceviche topped with avocados and crushed pumpkin seeds, and a salad of nopalitos, chopped Prickly Pear Cactus blades (with the spines removed, of course). The ceviches were hideously tart - all one tasted was the lime juice, not the fresh fish, the onions, or the accompanying fruits. Part of the problem is that they were drowning in marinade, and part of the problem is that they were served on a flat plate, rather than the traditional presentation in a deep bowl or martini glass, which would have prevented every spoonful from coming up with a ton of overpowering acid. The tuna ceviche pieces were ensconced in little rice-paper wontons, an odd wrapping, since the wonton was destroyed and made soggy by the flood of lime juice. The nopalito salad was tastier and more straightforward, accompanied by diced tomatoes and red onion. I did find myself thinking that chopped nopales would be tastiest in an omelette, used as green bell peppers might be.
For our next round of tapas, we sampled pollo con mole poblano, salmon with a green mole and crushed pumpkin seeds, and enchiladas in a red sauce. The chicken mole was tasty enough, accompanied by plantains and rice, but it was nothing special. The mole was more chocolate-y and not as spicy as some I have tasted over the years. I did not have a chance to sample my companions' enchiladas or salmon, but they reported that their dishes were "fine, nothing special".
Dessert was the winner by far. We had a mole poblano-stuffed chocolate cake that was delicious, and I think I understood why the mole used on the pollo was not so spicy - my guess is that the chef was cutting corners, and a sweeter mole was doing double duty! I and another table companion had the delicious tres leches cake, a favorite of mine and recommended by our waitress, accompanied by a yummy dulce de leche ice cream. In addition - despite the hot outside temperatures - I opted for a divine chocolate caliente with cinnamon, chilis, and steamed milk.
Service was good, not exceptional, and the décor was interesting enough. The restaurant occupies the space formerly taken by Andale, and I have to admit, my dining companions and I departed from our meal wishing that Andale was still in business there.
Andres has been very successful in Washington, and I think he needs to stick to what he does best - making inventive food that doesn't lose its basic tastiness at the expense of the razzle-dazzle. In the meantime, if you're looking for a tastier Oaxacan meal, give newcomer Casa Oaxaca in Adams Morgan a try. read more