Let me preface this review by noting that I am a fairly enormous snob when it comes to Mexican food. The few years I spent in Tucson, AZ, genuinely spoiled me when it comes to all things delicious and Mexican, though I will also say that the best Mexican food I've ever eaten came from a roadside stand in Hatch, New Mexico.
A few months back, I won a four person tasting dinner at Oyamel at a silent auction to benefit Pediatric AIDS. I wasn't sure what to expect, but, as I've found few genuinely authentic and impressively experimental Mexican restaurants in D.C., except perhaps the highly lauded Rosa Mexicana, I was eager to discover Oyamel's offerings.
I was immediately impressed by the decor at Oyamel and found that the whimsical butterfly mobiles floating around the ceiling and the tables nestled into window nooks created an atmosphere that was at once upscale but also intimate and pretty.
As my boyfriend and I were early for our reservation, we chose to sit at the bar, which was somewhat crowded. However, the restaurant has placed tables behind the bar for standing room, so at least one has somewhere to rest their drink while they wait for a bar stool.
I had a traditional margarita on the rocks with salt. I chose the margarita from an extensive list of authentic and sometimes quirky cocktails, all of which looked delicious, because it is a quick and easy way to immediately assess the quality of a Mexican restaurant. I will not drink anything that involves sour mix and sugar. A margarita should be made with high end tequila, lime juice and Cointreau or Grand Marnier.
I must say that, while Oyamel's margarita was certainly delicious and authentic, it was not among the very best I've had because it was too salty (and this, coming from someone who adores all things salty). Their method of mixing the margarita includes adding salt directly to the drink itself and, while this creates a beautiful frothy top on the drink, the method overwhelms the taste of the tequila.
When the rest of our party arrived, we were seated one of the aforementioned window nooks, which created a quiet, intimate atmosphere for myself and my guests.
Upon making my reservation, because some of those in our group had health restrictions, I asked that the food be served using as little fat and sugar as possible. This is a pretty risky and difficult demand to meet when cooking Mexican food, which traditionally consists of enormous amounts of butter, oil and lard, and I was overjoyed to see that the chef had taken my request to heart. The dishes were not only healthy, but also successfully experimental and, most importantly, delectable.
While I genuinely applaud Jose Andres, I must also applaud the staff, including especially the sommelier and our waitress, for putting up with my rather raucous and celebratory table and for laughing along with us. The service was truly wonderful.
Our tasting menu began with more margaritas, chips, and salsa and guacamole, which was made fresh at our table (one of my favorite practices in Mexican restaurants, because one can specify the amounts of each ingredient and I always find that restaurants often skimp on the cilantro and jalapeno in guacamole).
Next, the sommelier came to our table to discuss our wine choices and I have to say that I loved his candor, enthusiasm and decision to go with some wines that were "a little out there". In the end, we chose to experiment with a white wine from Arizona and a red wine from Mexico. Unfortunately, I cannot remember the name of the wines, but I will say that I was quite impressed by their quality, especially considering the regions in which the grapes were grown, and by the sommelier's ability to pair the wine almost perfectly with the food we were served.
The white, which had a lovely hint of grapefruit in the finish, went beautifully with the Ceviche de huachinango and the Ceviche de marlin azul con toronja y coriandro that began our dinner. I have had some incredible ceviches and I would absolutely rank these among the best I've ever tasted.
Throughout the evening, the food's quality only increased. We were served delicious sea scallops (though they were slightly overcooked); sirloin steak that was cooked at a low temperature, in water, for over twenty-four hours; beautiful and colorful salads and rice dishes; and absolutely outstanding desserts. I won't go into too much detail about each dish, because I've come to believe that it's likely that everything on the menu is equally delicious.
I truly loved the way in which the meal was served as well - almost tapas style, on small sampling plates, which allowed us to sample a variety of dishes without become overly full.
Finally, I would recommend Oyamel's truly impressive tequila bar. We completed our meal, truly sated and dazzled, by sipping on a glass of Casa Noble Anejo, served in a champagne flute. read more