Ristorante Denicola has been around for more than a decade, but I just found out about it last week. Two Yelp friends introduced me to this fine Italian house when we met for dinner a few nights ago, and but for their detailing its location in the Mallard Creek Shopping Center I would never have seen it. Intentionally or not, it is a well kept (hidden) secret.
The front door is inconspicuous, like a secondary entrance near green/white awnings that feel like the porch in the back of a home. Walking in, it is surprisingly large with rough hewn wood horizontal panels, dark tones, carpet, and nicely spaced tables. We sat is the corner in an otherwise empty dining room.
Our server was well known to my friends, and she took very good care of us all night. This family business' signature style is to deliver much more than expected in the form of non-ordered extra dishes that are a surprising addition to the meal. For us, they dropped off Grilled Veggie Antipasto, Tomato Bisque, Homemade Sausage Pizza, Chicken Breast Joey (a piccata/marsala feel) and Cannoli, on top of our main courses. All this was a meal unto itself. When they then deliver a large plate of Penne A'glio Olio with Sautéed heavily Garliced Spinach, the result was taking most of it home. I'm not complaining, but it again brought to the forefront my discomfort with intentional excess in a world full of hunger.
Here's the ironic part of the experience - my pasta was very good; al dente with well browned Garlic Chips mixed into the Spinach and Red Pepper dusted Penne. It was the best of my samplings, but the one I ate the least of because I was already full from everything that came surrounding it. The gratis accompaniments were also good, but a step down from the main course. The Antipasto had fresh cut tomato, onion and cilantro on top of the Grilled Zucchini and Eggplant. The "bruschetta" was cold while the nicely grill-ribbed large veggies were warm. It was an inconsistency that detracted from the cohesion of the dish. The Homemade Sausage was excellent and plentiful, but the tomato sauce was thin and runny. The Tomato Bisque had a pleasant creamy texture and taste, but was a little lumpy. The Chicken Joey was fine, but I was beginning to feel overwhelmed and mildly compelled to take a share. The Cannoli were perfect.
The overall effect was that each additional offering both added and detracted from the meal. I don't think that was the intention in the kitchen, but that was how it felt. The generosity of the house also opened the door to mild disappointment.
After this review my friends may regret inviting me, and I am sorry for that. I will definitely return and ask for a more limited approach to my next meal. I would rather be totally impressed with the food I desire, and have fewer filling distractions.
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