Not the original hot springs or the original building at this hot springs but nonetheless, this is a historic site with an old gold mining camp alongside the river, two suspension bridges, a more than hundred-year old hotel and concrete pool filled with warm hot springs water. There are rustic rooms for rent in the hotel, lawns for camping, a few RV sites and a couple of beautifully built modern cabins. The middle fork of the John Day river babbles along night and day and when the moon is high, you can see its sparkling reflection in the water.
Though things are rustic here, the restroom is kept clean with soap and towels for hand washing and the toilet paper never runs out! You won't hear TVs here or people on their cell phones. It's very quiet and relaxed. We camped here for five days, which felt like a short lifetime. We cooked delicious meals on our camp stove and ate dinner at a picnic table under a dusky sky while watching for mule deer in the surrounding hills. One night we saw a rainbow in the sunset with a waxing moon. Magical! The secret is out about Ritter and the word is the cabins - which are an incredible deal at about $80/night for one that sleeps 6 - are booked months in advance. It's closed here in winter, as it's cold and snowy.
We came in early summer, late June, and the hillsides were exploding with wildflowers. Mock orange grows wild along the riverbank here and the smell of the blossoms, in early evening especially, is heavenly. We also saw profusions of daisies, vetch, lupine, yarrow, cornflower, coreopsis, paintbrush and wild rose. There are a number of short walks from the hot springs that you can take to see deer, get panoramic views or just get some exercise. In late summer, it's much hotter but the river provides convenient refreshment.
Every day that we were there, it got busier as it approached the weekend. Most people were just coming through for one night but a few groups, like ours, stayed for several days. On Sunday, everyone was packing up to leave. If you're looking to avoid crowds, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday is the time to be here!
A few notes about the establishment. The owners are Seventh Day Adventist so it's posted that they don't allow alcohol consumption on the property, though I think people do, discretely. They also close the pool from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday and drain it and pressure clean it on Thursday night so it's essentially out of commission on Friday as well. We felt no other repression from the owners, though, they and the caretakers are extremely friendly and helpful and will help you get whatever you need.
Dogs are allowed, there are a few campfire pits and a BBQ grill, there is plenty of fresh drinking water available and the best feature, in my opinion, is the hot spring fed outdoor shower that dumps 108 degree hot spring water on you, riverside. There's also a washing machine and clotheslines. It's pretty much a make-yourself-at-home kind of place. Camping runs $11/night.
For historians, there's also the old store and café which is half in ruins but has a few dusty shelves of old photographs, school registers, and other bits of old things to look at, dating the establishment back to the early 1900's. Almost forgot, there is a row of the original hot springs tubs still open and in use, they're small concrete tubs with a shelf to sit on and a rickety wood structure built around. Still, the water is hot and it's a decent soak. read more